Showing posts with label Montparnasse. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Montparnasse. Show all posts

Thursday, June 16, 2016

Ed Clark: Reflections on Life and Art in Paris

Each time I give a presentation on Beauford Delaney's Montparnasse or lead the walking tour of the same name that I inaugurated during the Resonance of Form and Vibration of Color exhibition that took place in February - March 2016, I talk about Ed Clark. He was a good friend of Beauford as well as a fellow artist.

In reviewing the blog post that I wrote about him - "Ed Clark - 'Broom-pusher' Artist" - I remembered that I did not use all the material that I gathered when I interviewed him several years ago. I'm bringing it to you today.


***********

Despite Montparnasse's long-established history of being an artist's haven, Ed Clark was not driven to seek lodging there when he moved to Paris on the G.I. bill in 1952. He would have lived anywhere in town, but by chance, he found a cheap room in the quartier.

He first settled in the Hôtel des Ecoles on rue Delambre (now the Hôtel Lenox Montparnasse), then moved into a top floor apartment across the street at Number 22. A skylight flooded the apartment with wonderful light that allowed Clark to use this as a studio. His building was occupied by others who were destined to become famous artists – among them Cardenas, one of Paris’ most famous expatriate sculptors, and Sugai, one of Japan’s most famous artists.

Courtyard at 22, rue Delambre
© Discover Paris!

Clark enrolled at the Ecole de la Grande Chaumière, which was very popular among students because it allowed creative expression that was not permitted at the prestigious Académie des Beaux-Arts (where several African-Americans also studied over the years). He described the Grande Chaumière as a “workshop school”, where students were not forced to attend classes. His experience there was different than at the Art Institute of Chicago, where there was constant interaction with students and work was critiqued daily.

Ecole de la Grande Chaumière
© Discover Paris!

Clark spoke fondly of two experiences there that spurred him onward toward excellence in his work. The first was a comment made by French artist and professor Edouard Goreg. Clark, who said that at the time he was determined to outpaint Michelangelo, was earnestly painting a nude model. Goreg came by to examine the work and critiqued Clark by saying “this smacks of the Academy (des Beaux-Arts).” Clark went on to relax his attempts at perfecting technique and allowed himself more freedom of expression in his painting. Goreg was to eventually judge Clark’s work at a show at Paris’ Gallery Craven in 1953, one of the rare exhibitions that featured American artists at that time.

Catalog cover
Peintres américains en France

The second incident occurred when Clark decided to try his hand at sculpture. Though devoted to painting, he decided to take a class in sculpture “because it was free.” He had the opportunity to sculpt the same model who posed for Rodin’s The Thinker. Clark’s professor for this class was none other than the Russian sculptor Ossip Zadkine, whose atelier in the 6th arrondissement in Paris was converted into a museum devoted to his work. Zadkine critiqued one of Clark’s sculptures by saying “I see that you’re a painter,” indicating that Clark’s approach to the medium and the art form was inadequate.

Clark describes himself as the first African-American painter to use large canvases for his works. The painting entitled The City (1953), measuring 51 x 77 inches, was his first such endeavor. He presented many such works at the 1954 exhibition entitled Grandes Toiles de Montparnasse that was sponsored by the American Center for Students and Artists. In 1955, he created a painting that measured 4 x 3 meters (~13 x 10 feet), which he said was the largest ever made in Europe at that time.


His work was favorably reviewed by Le Monde critic Michel Conil-Lacoste, which was significant given that the French took a negative view of art created by Americans at that time. But Clark’s gratification from this review was tainted by Lacoste’s referral to him as “a Negro of great talent,” a statement that could have been interpreted to mean that most blacks were not capable of having great talent. He met Lacoste at the café Select and asked why Lacoste had written this. Lacoste replied that he had not previously been aware that Clark was black, but that when he learned of Clark’s race, he reported it as a matter of fact, not of judgment. Lacoste was instrumental in getting Clark’s paintings into the Gallery Creuze, where he had a one-man show in 1955.

Interestingly, but perhaps not surprisingly, the Herald Tribune would not review Clark’s work.

Because of his fondness for his new-found lifestyle and the French capacity to “live and let live,” and also because of the success that he enjoyed with his first solo exhibition, Clark stayed in Paris after his G.I. benefits were depleted. But he ran out of money after the commercial failure of his second show and moved to New York with a group of artists to create a co-op avant garde gallery. The New York Times and other papers declined to review his work, as the Herald Tribune in Paris had done.

Clark credits his appreciation of the use of natural light and color, so important to the Impressionists, to his training in Paris. He has had numerous exhibits in Paris since the 1950s, and was one of the artists featured in the exhibition entitled Explorations in the City of Light: African-American Artists in Paris, 1945-1965 that traveled throughout the United States in 1996-97. The City graces the cover of the exhibition catalog.

Catalog cover
Explorations in the City of Light: African-American Artists in Paris, 1945-1965

Living in Paris and traveling throughout France has given Clark an original perspective on artistic expression and has influenced his approach to painting. He says that he would freely advise young artists to go to Paris “not for training (as I did), but for life”, but would warn them that it is difficult to earn a living there.

To sum up what Clark learned from his artistic training and experience in Paris, he states emphatically “Art must be more than correct – it must be beautiful!”

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, March 3, 2016

Beauford Delaney's Montparnasse - Entrée to Black Paris' Newest Walking Tour

When I organized the Beauford Delaney: Resonance of Form and Vibration of Color art exhibition at Columbia Global Centers | Paris at Reid Hall, I created a new Entrée to Black Paris walking tour to honor the artist.

Beauford Delaney
© Carl van Vechten 1953

Beauford moved to Paris in 1953 and died here in 1979. For the majority of these years, he lived in the historic artists' district called Montparnasse. The walk features his homes and haunts in the 6th and 14th arrondissements, and includes two sites that bear plaques commemorating him on their façades.

Mural - Théâtre de la Gaîte - Montparnasse
 © Discover Paris!

On the day after the exhibition's grand opening, I gave the tour for the first time to students from the University of Arizona and their professor, Dr. Bryan Carter. This group traveled to Paris for the purpose of creating an Augmented Reality app that allows exhibition attendees and owners of the exhibition catalog to access information and spoken word performances on the Internet that are associated with several of the works in the show.

Professor Bryan Carter (far right), University of Arizona students,
and Monique (front left)
© Discover Paris!

The second group to experience the tour consisted primarily of travelers from Beauford's hometown of Knoxville, Tennessee. Four of them represented the Knoxville Museum of Art, which has since expressed keen interest in hosting the exhibition during the spring and summer of 2017.

Knoxville group at Théâtre de Poche
© Discover Paris!

One of the participants remarked that it was very special for her to see Knoxville's name displayed on two façades in Paris!

Plaque at Hôtel Le M
© Discover Paris!

The following week, teachers attending the exhibition and participating in J Rêve International's Global Educator Program for professional development took the tour.

At Hôtel Le M
© J Rêve International

At Montparnasse Cemetery
© J Rêve International

Crossing boulevard du Montparnasse
© J Rêve International

Their mission in attending the exhibition was to learn about STEAM (science, technology, engineering, arts, and mathematics) education and to explore ways to incorporate the arts into teaching practices for their respective disciplines with Beauford's life and art serving as inspiration. For a full week, the group attended and participated in several conferences on these themes, including a meeting with the Fulbright Commission.

The exhibition was originally scheduled to run from February 4 to 29, 2016, but due to its tremendous success, it has been prolonged until March 15, 2016! Entry is free and registration is required to visit. To sign up for a visit, click here.

If you'd like to experience the Beauford Delaney's Montparnasse walking tour, send e-mail to

.

Beauford Delaney
Rue Guilleminot
France 1973
© Errol Sawyer


************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, January 8, 2015

Romare Bearden's Paris Odyssey - Prelude

When I wrote Patricia Laplante-Collins' Black Paris Profile, I referred to her as the "undisputed doyenne of the Paris salon scene."

Patricia once again proved that to be true on Sunday evening, January 4, 2015, when the guest speaker at her Paris Soirée presented a taste of what the Paris public can expect to experience at the Paris Odyssey art exposition that is being mounted at Columbia Global Centers in Reid Hall.

Paris Odyssey slide presentation
© Discover Paris!

Professor Robert O'Meally is Columbia University’s Zora Neale Hurston Professor of English and Comparative Literature. He conceived and curated Paris Odyssey, which is a modified version of the Smithsonian Institution's traveling exhibition Romare Bearden: A Black Odyssey (also conceived and curated by O'Meally) that currently hangs at the Wallach Gallery on Columbia's New York campus. The show features Bearden's collages and watercolors based on Homer's epic poems, the Odyssey and the Iliad.

Professor Robert O'Meally
© Discover Paris!

Paris Odyssey is the first stop of a global tour that will include Istanbul, Johannesburg, and potentially, Beijing. In Paris, Bearden's work will be paired with that of Henri Matisse, the French master, who was one of Bearden's primary artistic influences. His Odyssey and Iliad series will hang side-by-side with Matisse's own Odyssean sketches.

Also to be shown is Bearden's "Paris Blues" series, which is based on his memories of his life in Paris during the 1950s and features themes from the 1961 film Paris Blues. Matisse's well-known Jazz collages will provide counterpoint to this set of Bearden's works.

Slide presenting a work from the "Paris Blues" series
© Discover Paris!

At Sunday's soirée, there was a full house in attendance.


Packed house
© Discover Paris!

As usual, Patricia introduced everyone before the presentation began.

Patricia makes an introduction
© Discover Paris!

Professor O’Meally then spoke of Bearden's upbringing, his passion for portraying strong women in his art, his love of jazz, and his relationship with legendary jazz greats, Duke Ellington and Billy Strayhorn. He discussed the nuances of Bearden's portrayals of scenes from Homer's Odyssey from an artistic and a cultural perspective that focused on Bearden's ability to pay tribute to those who inspired his art and still create works that were uniquely his.

Bob O'Meally presents Paris Odyssey
© Discover Paris!

Paris Odyssey opens at Reid Hall on January 19th. A symposium will be held on January 20th. You must sign up to attend.

See you there!

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, January 10, 2013

Aïcha - The Ebony Inspiration of Montparnasse


Last week, on the Entrée to Black Paris Facebook page, I posted an image of a portrait that I found on Pinterest:

Image from the Pinterest board "Not for Art's Sake"
by Octavia McBride-Ahebee


I am captivated by the beauty of this portrait as well as by the fact that it is attributed to one of my favorite Ecole de Paris artists - Amedeo Modigliani.

Photo of Amedeo Modigliani (date unknown)
Fair use claim


I have never seen this particular Modigliani before and have never known "Modi" to have depicted a black person in his work, so I am in search of more information about this oeuvre - name, date, media used, etc.

I also want to know who the model is. Presumably the name of the painting would provide a clue, if not the definitive answer to this question. But without this information, I began to think about who this woman might be.

Suddenly, I remembered Aïcha. She was a model for many artists in the Ecole de Paris in early 20th-century Montparnasse. She was also a stage performer. I have never seen a photo of her without a turban or some other kind of head wrap, so I think that she may well be the inspiration, if not the actual model, for the portrait shown above.

Cropped image of Aïcha from Kiki de Montparnasse
Photo credit: Private collection of Guy Krohg

Fair use claim

The following information is drawn from an essay written by the late Michel Fabre and published by Barnard College:

Aïcha Goblet was born in Hazebrouck, France to a Martinican father and a French mother. Her father was a juggler in a traveling circus and Aïcha joined him in the ring at the age of six, performing as a bareback horse rider. She moved to Paris at the age of sixteen and modeled for Ecole de Paris artist Jules Pascin and numerous others - including Modigliani. She had a soft spot for these artists, sometimes cooking for them and loaning them money.

Aïcha was the subject of numerous paintings by these artists. Tsuguharu Foujita painted her in the Cubist style, while Moïse Kisling portrayed her figuratively:

Portrait d'Aïcha
Moïse Kisling
1919 Oil on canvas
Image from Millon & Associés Web site

Fair use claim

In a book called Montparnasse (1925) by Gustave Fuss-Amoré and Maurice Des Ombiaux (out of print), the authors state that "Some artists sometimes portray her with red hair, green breasts, or depict her in a variety of colored shapes. No auction of modern painting takes place at Hôtel Drouot without some representation of this Martiniquaise from the Batignolles."

Unlike her contemporary, Kiki (called the Queen of Montparnasse), Aïcha was quite modest in her habits and demeanor. Fuss-Amoré and Des Ombiaux wrote that "She has remained the wisest of models. She holds fast to the old principles ... Any coarse male who would come too close to her would face a wild cat."

Aïcha also performed on the stage as a music hall dancer and a dramatic actress. She was the inspiration for a character in the André Salmon novel La Négresse du Sacré Coeur and wrote her own memoirs. In many ways, she was a predecessor to Josephine Baker.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.
We are proud to have been selected as one of 10 BEST Paris blogs!

If you liked this article, share it with your friends and colleagues by clicking on one or more of the social media buttons below!

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Errol Sawyer, Photographer

Errol Sawyer, his son Victor, and I recently met and spent a few precious moments in the Quartier de l’Ouest of Montparnasse, south of the Gare Montparnasse. Precious for him because he was returning to the neighborhood where he rented a studio and pursued his photography career in the early 1970s. Precious for me because he was able to show me the location where he photographed Beauford Delaney, resulting in the most beautiful celluloid portrait of Beauford that I have ever seen!

Victor and Errol Sawyer
© Discover Paris

Father and son had come to Paris for a very brief visit so that Sawyer could deliver works to be displayed at Dorothy’s Gallery – American Center for the Arts and so that he could expose Victor to the wonders of the city. He described his trek to this part of the city as a pilgrimage of sorts, saying that he had not visited this neighborhood in at least 30 years. This was where he began his life in Paris in 1971, seeking work as a professional photographer in the fashion and beauty industry.

Sawyer rented the space on rue Guilleminot from a Romanian sculptor for “almost nothing.” He appreciated the studio because it faced the street, had a coal-burning stove, and benefited from beautiful ambient light. He installed a dark room in the loggia and honed his developing skills there. The building has long since disappeared – the entire neighborhood was rebuilt during the late 70s and early 80s.

Sawyer describes his life during his seven years in Paris (1971-78) as very romantic, admixed with rich relationships and serendipitous encounters, but also of material poverty. One of his remarkable encounters was his discovery of supermodel Christie Brinkley, whom he met at the neighborhood post office on rue Pernety. Sawyer often went there to use the phone because he did not have one at his studio. He was the first to professionally photograph Brinkley and introduced her to the Elite Model Management agency in Paris, which launched her career.

Though times were often hard (Sawyer recounted having survived for a three-week period on parsley, nuts, and water), he benefited tremendously from the generosity of the French and other Europeans and the favorable exchange rate between the dollar and the franc (roughly 3.40 Francs to the dollar). At one point, he was offered free room and board in an apartment on rue Pierre 1er de Serbie in the 16th arrondissement. Later, he was able to stay in an apartment on rue Perronet in Neuilly-sur-Seine. Food was much cheaper then that it is now – Sawyer remembers being served copious, three-course meals at Paris bistrots for less than 20 francs.

Errol Sawyer. Paris, France. 1970s
Photo courtesy of Errol Sawyer

Errol Sawyer (born August 8, 1943, Florida, USA) is the son of Robert Earl Sawyer (1923-1994), an African-American playwright, actor, director, and producer whose family emigrated from Nassau, Bahamas, to Miami, Florida. His mother, Mamie Lucille Donaldson (1928-2009), was an African American Cherokee Indian whose family lived in Bainbridge, Georgia. She was in charge of the Intensive Care Unit of the Bronx Lebanon Hospital in the Bronx, New York City, for twenty five years.

Sawyer grew up in New York City (Harlem and the Bronx), studied history and political science at NYU, and found his vocation as a photographer while traveling in Colombia, Ecuador and Peru in 1968. He bought his first camera in 1966 and became a professional photographer in 1969. Sawyer never went to art school; rather, he read books to teach himself the skill. “Too much technique inhibits the process,” he says. “The way you see things is the most important, and that is simply a reflection of how you live your life.”

Living and working in Paris and London in the early 1970’s, Sawyer’s photos were published in Elle, Dépêche Mode and French Vogue. In 1978, he returned to New York and worked for American Vogue, Essence, New York Magazine and many other magazines. He moved back to Paris in 1984 and remained here until 1988. He subsequently traveled around Europe, returned to the U.S. in 1995, and then moved permanently to Amsterdam in 1999. There, he married Mathilde Fischer, an architect and former picture model, whom he had met in Paris in 1977. Their son Victor Leonard Sawyer was born in 2005.

Since 1984, Sawyer has devoted most of his time to the realization of documentary and fine art photography. From 2006 to 2010, he was a guest professor of photography at the Technical University Delft, Holland. In 2010 the Errol Sawyer Foundation was established in Amsterdam. Its first project (funded by the Sem Presser Foundation) was the publication of the photo book City Mosaic, a compilation of 64 black & white pictures taken primarily in New York, Paris, and Amsterdam.

Sawyer still takes photographs every day, capturing the essence of interesting persons and events that cross his path through “chance encounters in day-to-day intercourse with life.” He develops and prints his photos himself in his darkroom in Amsterdam. Though he occasionally creates color portraits, most of his work is done in black & white. According to him:

A picture is good when it leaves room for you to imagine…

A good picture results from a subconscious dance between being present and not being present. A photograph, or any image for that matter, should not only articulate a point in time and space but simultaneously provoke a re-evaluation of that particular point. It should stimulate our perception of what we take for granted about physical phenomena. That is why it is so important to leave a picture as it is.

In 1974, the Bibliothèque Nationale de France (France’s national library) purchased thirty-six (36) black & white Silver Gelatin prints of Sawyer’s portfolio “Children of East End” (1970). The library also owns a color photograph called “Clochard” that was taken by Sawyer at Washington Square Park in New York in 1995. From his portfolio entitled “Paris,” the Musée Français de la Photographie in Bièvres acquired six black & white prints in 1991.

Sawyer’s work has also been purchased by Schomburg Center for Research in Black Culture, the New York Public Library (Harlem, New York), and the Museum of Fine Arts (Houston, Texas). Eric Franck, brother of the late photographer Martine Franck (widow of Henri Cartier-Bresson), recently donated six Sawyer prints from his “London Collection” to the Tate Modern (London, UK). Sawyer's solo exhibitions include shows at the 4th Street Gallery (New York, USA), the Royal Photographic Society (Bath, England), Le Musée Français de la Photographie (Bièvres, France), Foto Huset Gallery (Götenburg, Sweden), No Name Gallery (Basel, Switzerland), La Chambre Claire Gallery (Paris, France) and the Royal Gallery (Amsterdam, Holland).

The photo portrait of Beauford Delaney from Sawyer’s book City Mosaic (2010) is currently on display at the Obama’s America exposition at Dorothy’s Gallery and another work from the book is on reserve.

Sawyer’s portrait of Beauford Delaney at Dorothy’s Gallery
© Discover Paris!

Dorothy’s Gallery – American Center for the Arts
27, rue Keller
75011 Paris
Telephone: 01 43 57 08 51
Metro: Bastille (Lines 1, 5, and 8), Voltaire (Line 9)
Hours: Wednesday through Saturday from 1 PM to 7 PM, Tuesday and Sunday from 4 PM to 7 PM

A limited number of copies of City Mosaic are available for purchase at the gallery as well.

The exposition runs through November 10, 2012. Take advantage of the opportunity to view Sawyer’s work in person!

For more information about Sawyer and his œuvre, visit www.errolsawyer.com and www.errolsawyerstudio.com.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you liked this article, share it with your friends and colleagues by clicking on one or more of the social media buttons below!

Thursday, March 15, 2012

Remembering Loïs Mailou Jones

Loïs Mailou Jones (1905-1998) was an African-American artist from a well-to-do Boston family. She is said to be the most notable African American to study art in Paris in the 1930s, and is perhaps the most illustrious African-American woman ever to have studied here.

Loïs Mailou Jones
Photo from National Archives and Records Administration

Jones worked for Carter G. Woodson for several years, providing illustrations for his books and periodicals. In 1937, while teaching at Howard University, she received a General Education Board Fellowship to study at Académie Julian in Paris. She took advantage of her first sabbatical year at Howard to do so. Woodson went to the pier to see Jones off when she took her first voyage to France aboard the S.S. Normandie on September 1, 1937. When she set sail, she already had an assignment to complete – she was to create illustrations for Woodson’s book African Heroes and Heroines.

In accepting the General Education Board Fellowship, Jones was able to fulfill a long-term desire to go to Paris. Years earlier, her mentor, African-American sculptor Meta Warwick Fuller (1896-1968), advised Jones that she would need to go abroad to launch a successful career. Fuller was living proof of this as she had studied in Paris herself, attending the Académie des Beaux Arts (Paris’ classical art school) in 1899. In 1901, she was introduced to Auguste Rodin, who took her on as a student. With his sponsorship, Fuller made significant progress in her career. When she returned to the United States in the fall of 1902, she had seen 22 of her sculptures exhibited in Samuel Bing’s Galerie de l’Art Nouveau in Paris. Rodin insured that an enlargement of one of these pieces was accepted for display at the Sociéte National des Beaux Arts Salon in 1903.

Thus, Jones emulated Fuller by studying in the French capital. She had a lush studio apartment on rue Campagne Première during her one-year stay. There were three levels, a terrace and a roof garden. Floor-to-ceiling windows on one wall allowed light in - perfect conditions for an artist!

The directors of the Académie Julien appointed one of Jones’ fellow students to help her with her French, and her professors showed interest in her talent. She worked to reproduce the Impressionist style of one of her favorite teachers there, and produced many landscape paintings of Paris. Among these were several Paris street scenes, including boulevard St. Michel, the Moulin Rouge, and the Luxembourg Garden. But she also painted in the Cubist style, depicting black subjects in two works entitled Les Fetiches and Jeanne, Martiniquaise. She saw many of her still lifes and street scenes accepted at art salons and galleries in 1938.

Les Fetiches
Loïs Mailou Jones
1938 Oil on linen
National Museum of American Art, Smithsonian Institution

Like Fuller, Jones also studied at the Académie des Beaux Arts and the Académie Colarossi during her sabbatical year.

Twenty-four years later, Jones returned to Paris as leader of Howard University’s first study abroad program in France; this included a three-week course at the Académie de la Grande Chaumière, the famous art institute in Montparnasse. She taught at Howard until 1977, when she retired.

Thursday, March 8, 2012

Black Paris Profiles™:Velma Bury – Part 2

Last week, you learned about Velma's arrival in the south of France and how she and her late husband Pol established their home in Paris. This week, I present Velma's activities as professor and art enthusiast, and talk of her appreciations of living in Paris.

************


Velma at home
© Discover Paris!

Among her many activities as an art enthusiast, Velma taught a course at the prestigious Ecole des Beaux Arts for ten years. Because she knew that students would need to communicate in English for the year abroad that they were required to complete for graduation, she created a formal training course on English vocabulary in relation to fine arts and presented it to the school’s director. Her course began somewhat less than auspiciously due to some anti-American sentiment among the faculty, but it rapidly grew in popularity and became one of the most sought-after classes at the institute.

************

Black Paris Profiles is now available on Kindle.  Only excerpts are available on this blog.
To get your copy of Black Paris Profiles, click HERE.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you liked this article, share it with your friends and colleagues by clicking on one or more of the social media buttons below!

Thursday, March 1, 2012

Black Paris Profiles™:Velma Bury – Part 1

Velma Bury, the grande dame of African-American Paris, has lived in the City of Light for over 40 years. A politically-active art aficionado and retired professor, she now runs Les Boules et Les Cubes, the company that handles the estate of her late husband, Pol Bury. Velma has personally witnessed the metamorphosis of the Paris art world, the city’s African-American population, and her beloved Montparnasse. She serves as advisor to Les Amis de Beauford Delaney, the French non-profit association that placed a tombstone on artist Beauford Delaney’s previously unmarked grave in 2010. As president of Les Amis, it is my great pleasure to bring you Velma’s story!

************


Velma at her Montparnasse home
© Discover Paris!

Velma left her home in New York and her activities in the civil rights movement to permanently relocate to France in 1968 with her soon-to-be husband, Belgian sculptor Pol Bury. She and Pol booked passage on an Italian ocean liner and sailed to Cannes. Velma recalls that the ship was quite sumptuous and she has vivid memories of the four-day journey.

************

Black Paris Profiles is now available on Kindle.  Only excerpts are available on this blog.
To get your copy of Black Paris Profiles, click HERE.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you liked this article, share it with your friends and colleagues by clicking on one or more of the social media buttons below!

Thursday, February 17, 2011

U.S. Embassy Celebrates Black History Month with Discover Paris!™

For anyone looking for a tour with a warm and knowledgeable guide that goes beyond the usual monuments and landmarks, I highly recommend taking a Discover Paris! tour.

Arcadia Letkemann, TMM Public Outreach Coordinator/Special Projects
American Embassy Paris
************

On Saturday, February 12th, fifteen staff members of the U.S. Embassy in Paris celebrated Black History Month by taking a Discover Paris! Entrée to Black Paris™ (ETBP) walk that I created especially for them. It incorporated elements of ETBP’s “Black Pearl Walk” and “Black History in and around the Luxembourg Garden” walk. I was pleased to be able to include several new tidbits of information that I recently uncovered through interviews and research!

The first part of Saturday’s walk focused on the personas of Josephine Baker and Beauford Delaney. We began at Place Josephine Baker in the 14th arrondissement, where I briefly presented Josephine’s legacy of performing, military service and French Resistance activities during WWII, and philanthropy.

At Place Josephine Baker
© Discover Paris
!

We then visited the Bobino Theater – site of her last performance run in 1975 – and talked of the last days of her life and her funeral. We stopped near the wall of the Montparnasse cemetery, where I spoke of artist Beauford Delaney and his long-lasting friendship with James Baldwin. We then saw two hotels where Beauford lived during his first years in Paris, and got an unexpected glimpse of a courtyard that preserves the essence of “old Montparnasse.” The city of Paris razed the neighborhood in the 1960s and 70s, implementing an urban renewal project that favored profits over architectural aesthetics and the preservation of the area’s village atmosphere.

We went on to the Carrefour Vavin, where we continued to discuss Beauford and Josephine; for good measure I also offered an anecdote about African-American fighter pilot Eugene Bullard. All of the “Carrefour cafés”– Le Dôme, La Rotonde, Le Select, and La Coupole – have African-American history associated with them.

In front of Le Select
© Discover Paris!

Making our way to the Luxembourg Garden, we stopped briefly while I pointed out the former location of La Boule Blanche – one of the two most famous post-WWI Antillean clubs in Paris. People came here to dance the beguine, which was widely popularized when Josephine Baker included it in one of her dance performances in 1931.

We entered the garden at the southeast corner, where I talked briefly about the working apiary and the espaliered trees that exist there. We then wended our way along the gently curving paths to reach the Statue of Liberty. At the foot of the statue, I discussed the urban legend that claims that the sculptor used a black woman as the model and that the statue was conceived to honor the black soldiers who served during the Civil War.

Statue of Liberty
© Discover Paris!

During the remainder of our time in the garden, I talked about the “mutual admiration society” of Richard Wright and Gertrude Stein, the landscape paintings of Loïs Mailou Jones, and the Loi Taubira – the French law that declares slavery a crime against humanity. We ended our leisurely but eventful stroll at the Fabrice Hyber sculpture that commemorates the abolition of slavery in France.

Le Cri, L'Ecrit
Fabrice Hyber
© Discover Paris!

Arcadia Letkemann, Coordinator of TMM Public Outreach/Special Projects at the Embassy, had the following to say about the tour:

The Discover Paris! Black History Month walking tour, especially prepared for the American Embassy Paris, was a relaxing and informative experience. Don’t be daunted by the length of this tour; two hours went by quickly – especially because the tour was not strenuous and the pace was leisurely.

Monique Wells is a very personable and knowledgeable guide who was both well prepared and flexible; she even threw in information about landmarks, history and traditions that were not specifically geared to African-American history per se, but which enriched our understanding of the larger context that attracted black writers and artists to Paris during the 20th century.

For anyone looking for a tour with a warm and knowledgeable guide that goes beyond the usual monuments and landmarks, I highly recommend taking a Discover Paris! tour.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.



Thursday, November 18, 2010

Ed Clark, "Broom-Pusher" Artist

Each month, our Paris Insights newsletter presents the hidden jewels that comprise the "real" Paris – the people and places that are the true heart and soul of the city. Click here to sign up for our newsletter announcements and to receive our free guide called "Practical Paris”!

************


Ed Clark, Artist
© Discover Paris!

The Montparnasse district of Paris is renowned for an artistic tradition and Bohemian lifestyle that dates from the early 1900s. That tradition was still alive when more than 200 African-American soldiers took advantage of the educational benefits of the GI bill after World War II and moved to Paris to study. Among them was Ed Clark, one of the most successful African-American artists to live and study in Montparnasse.

Ed Clark Self-Portrait
1949-1951 Watercolor on board
Collection of the artist

Born in New Orleans, Louisiana, Clark moved with his family to Chicago after the Great Depression and finished his primary education there. He learned at a young age that he was gifted with artistic talent. After fulfilling his military service, he enrolled at the Art Institute of Chicago, and then moved to Paris to study under the GI Bill. He arrived in 1952, determined to become a great artist. Greatness, he says, is something to which he has always aspired.

Clark is one of the few living artists of the post-World War II African-American expatriate era. Though he currently resides in New York City, he returns to Paris almost every year to paint. He is fond of the studios that are made available to artists at the Cité Internationale des Arts on quai de l’Hôtel de Ville, and has stayed there twenty-eight times since moving stateside in 1956. At the Cité, he is free to cover the floor with thick plastic, place his monumental canvases on the floor, and paint with push brooms using the unique technique that he developed in 1963.

Ed Clark at Cité Internationale des Arts
© Discover Paris!

At eighty-four, Clark is as vigorous and quick-witted as a person half his age. He is a veritable font of information about the Paris of the 1950s and 60s, and has numerous stories to tell. One particularly interesting tale concerns his studio at 22, rue Delambre. He rented an apartment on the top floor of a dilapidated building that had no windows – a great handicap for an artist! His friend and fellow expatriate Richard Gibson described the studio as a “chicken coop.” One day, one of the residents of the building climbed onto the roof, cut a large rectangular hole in it, and covered it with plastic! Clark immediately had all the light he needed, and was subsequently the envy of his artist colleagues.

Paris daylight has a special luminosity that Clark particularly appreciates. He says there is a special blue in the atmosphere of Paris that he does not see elsewhere, and that the quality of light influences his selection of colors when he paints here. This can be perceived when one looks at a collection of his works.

Clark’s first encounter with “different” colors occurred when he took his first transatlantic voyage to France. On board the S.S. Liberté, he noted a special shade of blue in the overalls that the stevedores wore. He said that the color was reminiscent of the powdery blues that Monet used in his paintings.

Clark uses these shades of blue when he paints in Paris, but not elsewhere. He first noted that his “colors changed” when painting in Paris during his three-year stay here from 1966-1969. He says that he unconsciously changes color schemes when he paints in different geographical locations – he observed this effect when he stayed in Greece, Nigeria, Brazil, and other countries.

 ######

Ed Clark is participating in an exposition entitled African American Abstract Masters at the Opalka Gallery on the Sage College campus in Albany, NY through December 12, 2010.  To learn more about him and to see samples of his work, visit http://www.artistedclark.com/.

************




Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

Thursday, October 21, 2010

Montparnasse Unveiled

Each month, our Paris Insights newsletter presents the hidden jewels that comprise the "real" Paris – the people and places that are the true heart and soul of the city. Click here to sign up for our newsletter announcements and to receive our free guide called "Practical Paris”!

************

Several weeks ago, I had the pleasure of conducting a private, guided walking tour with Dr. Celeste Hart. She engaged Discover Paris! for several activities and products (as you will read in her testimonial below), one of which was a walk through Montparnasse. We spent two hours wending our way through the streets, conjuring up the spirits of the African-American and Bohemian past that made the district unique and famous.



Monique and Dr. Celeste Hart catching a glimpse of the courtyard
of an old artists’ studio complex from the early 20th century.
© Discover Paris!

*********************
Dr. Hart’s testimonial:

I recently engaged Discover Paris! to provide private, guided Afrocentric tours of the Louvre Museum and the Montparnasse district of Paris. I also purchased two of their downloadable walks – one on Richard Wright’s Paris and one on Josephine Baker’s Paris (The Black Pearl Walk).

I enjoyed both private tours immensely. They were filled with information and perspective that I couldn’t have gotten elsewhere, and I was able to engage the guides with questions and discussion that would not have been possible in a group tour. The guide for the Louvre tour provided a lively commentary which drew on her broad understanding of art history to provide fascinating insights into the significance of the inclusion of blacks in works of art spanning 3 centuries.

A special highlight of the Montparnasse tour was a dossier of rare photographs that the guide used to illustrate her discussion. Being able to see photos of the artists and their works as we passed their studios and favorite haunts added greatly to this experience. It was surprising to see how little some of their studios have changed over the years.

The downloadable walks contained remarkable detail about the places that Richard Wright and Josephine Baker frequented during their time in Paris.

Celeste B. Hart, M.D.
Tallahassee, FL
***********************

The beauty of Montparnasse does not lie in its architecture – the city razed the vast majority of the district during an urban renewal project in the 60s and 70s to construct mostly character-less buildings. The beauty of Montparnasse lies in its history, much of which is unknown to the average traveler. It teems with stories of artists and writers who came to Paris for a better life, beginning at the turn of the 20th century. African-American artists such as Henry Ossawa Tanner, Hale Woodruff, and Loïs Mailou Jones contribute as much to this history as do European artists such as Picasso, Pascin, and Modigliani.

Beauford Delaney, whose memory we recently honored by inaugurating his new tombstone, called Montparnasse home for the majority of the roughly twenty-six years that he lived in Paris. African-American writers James Baldwin and Chester Himes spent time there as did white American writers Ernest Hemingway and F. Scott Fitzgerald. Herb Gentry and his wife Honey Johnson operated a business near the Carrefour Vavin that was an art gallery by day and a jazz club by night. And we can’t forget that Josephine Baker performed for the final time of her life in Montparnasse…



Funeral procession for Josephine Baker
in front of the Bobino Theater, Montparnasse

Take Discover Paris!’ Entrée to Black Paris™ tour of Montparnasse and feel the artistic and literary pulse of this quartier beat again! For more information, contact us at info(at)discoverparis(dot)net.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.