Showing posts with label Luxembourg Garden. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Luxembourg Garden. Show all posts

Thursday, May 19, 2016

La Cima Charter School Tour of Luxembourg Garden - A First for Entrée to Black Paris Tours!

It's great to be back to blogging again!

Since the Beauford Delaney: Resonance of Form and Vibration of Color exhibition closed in mid-March, I've been on a mission to "take the show on the road".

Click here to find out how you can help!


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A few weeks ago, Entrée to Black Paris had the immense pleasure of providing our Luxembourg Garden tour to 11-year-olds and 12-year-olds from La Cima Charter School in Brooklyn. It was the first time that ETBP has given a guided walking tour to participants of such a young age!

La Cima Charter School Scholars and Chaperones at the Luxembourg Garden
© Discover Paris!

Executive Director Tara Phillips contacted us to ask whether we could give the La Cima scholars a guided tour that would complement the students' curriculum. Our initial response was that we don't provide tours for students less than 14 years of age.

Director Phillips responded immediately by informing us that La Cima's vision as a school is to "develop scholars who have the intellectual capacity, social capital and the emotional strength of character to be change makers in their communities" and that their curriculum "encourages students to grapple with difficult issues when it comes to being Black in America, both from historical and current perspectives." She told us that the article they were given to read in preparation for the trip was Thomas Chatterton Williams' story in the premier issue of Smithsonian Journeys Quarterly: "Is Paris Still a Haven for Black Americans?"

ETBP's "Black History in and Around the Luxembourg Garden" was the perfect tour for the group. It provided an idyllic setting to discuss many aspects of race relations - past and present - in France and to compare them with race relations in the U.S. Among the topics presented were the Loi Taubira (which declares slavery and the slave trade crimes against humanity); the outstanding political legacy of French Guiana's native son, Gaston Monnerville; and the Paris experiences of African-American artists Loïs Mailou Jones and Henry Ossawa Tanner.

Bust of Gaston Monnerville
© Discover Paris!

The students were delightfully attentive and had opportunities to associate topics from the tour with various subjects they were studying at home.

Executive Director Tara Phillips and Monique Y. Wells
© Discover Paris!

Phillips had the following to say about the tour:

We learned about the Entrée to Black Paris tour from the US Embassy. Monique came highly recommended and accommodated us with a well-tailored tour for our group. Our group included 12 5th graders and 7 adult chaperones from a charter school in Bedford Stuyvesant, Brooklyn.

We wanted the tour to be relevant to things our scholars have studied, including the experiences of Black Americans in Paris and other institutions that impact Black people around the globe. The tour met our expectations and we all learned a great deal about France’s role in the slave trade, famous Black American artists and writers who lived in Paris and several Black political leaders in Paris and their impact on government.

Students and chaperones alike enjoyed the tour. It definitely broadened all of our knowledge about the city and there were relevant connections made to our own lives in New York City.

Read Executive Director Phillips' entire testimonial here.

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Thursday, November 13, 2014

Black Pantheon

Paris' Pantheon is a landmark site in the 5th arrondissement that we have included on two of our most popular Entrée to Black Paris walks. It sits at the top of rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève (Saint Genevieve's mountain), only a few hundred meters away from the Luxembourg Garden.

Pantheon viewed from the Luxembourg Garden
© Discover Paris!

From a "black Paris" perspective, the Pantheon has many interesting features:

It is the final resting place of two men of African descent - Alexandre Dumas, père and Félix Eboué. Information boards on both men can be found in the crypt.

Dumas' remains were relocated there with much pomp and ceremony in 2002.

Pantheon in red, white, and blue for the interment of Alexandre Dumas
© Discover Paris!

Three black men are honored by inscriptions in the crypt - Toussaint L'Ouverture, Louis Delgres, and Aimé Césaire.

Inscription in honor of Toussaint l'Ouverture
© Discover Paris!

L'Ouverture's inscription reads:

IN MEMORY OF TOUSSAINT LOUVERTURE
Freedom Fighter - Artisan of the abolition of slavery
Haitian Hero - Died in deportation at Fort-de-Joux in 1803

There are images of blacks in the Alexandre Cabanel mural depicting the life of Saint Louis found inside the building.

The Life of Saint Louis (detail)
1874-1877 Alexandre Cabanel
© Discover Paris!

While its interior is not the most beautiful, the Pantheon was spectacularly transformed for the ceremonial events held in honor of Aimé Césaire after his death in 2008.

Homage to Aimé Césaire
© Discover Paris!

Black French have contributed to the current renovation of the monument. Their photos are displayed on the north gate along with those of several other donors.

Four contributors to the Pantheon restoration
© Discover Paris!

The Pantheon remains open during its restoration. It is located at:
Place du Panthéon
75005 Paris
Telephone: 01 44 32 18 00
Closest public transporation: RER B - Luxembourg
Entry fee: 7.50 euros; 4.50 euros for non-EU persons between the ages of 18-25

Pantheon dome under restoration
© Discover Paris!

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Thursday, June 5, 2014

Latin Rhythms at the Luxembourg Garden

Last Saturday was unexpectedly and delightfully musical!

Tom made arrangements for us to meet colleagues on Saturday, May 31st at the snack bar near the Sénat kiosk in the Luxembourg Garden.

The weather was perfect as we set out for a leisurely stroll to the garden. When we arrived, we found a full-fledged concert of Latin American music underway at the kiosk!

We didn't want to be late for our rendezvous, so we didn't pay much attention to the trio that was playing mellow music when we arrived. But as our meeting broke up, we heard strains of "Oye Como Va" as played by Santana coming from the kiosk and decided that we should go over and investigate.

Carlos de Nicaragua y Familia was the band performing this Latin rock classic. Their repertoire is a mix of salsa and reggae music.

Carlos was intent on getting the crowd up on its feet (French audiences can be very quiet even when they are thoroughly enjoying themselves) and he left the bandstand several times to get "up close and personal" to attendees.

Carlos de Nicaragua y Familia
© Discover Paris!

Carlos de Nicaragua
© Discover Paris!

He was especially attentive to two children who planted themselves at the edge of the stage to get a closer look at the band.

Children watching the performance
© Discover Paris!

Carlos and the kids
© Discover Paris!

I later learned that Carlos' full name is Carlos Wiltshire. He was born in Nicaragua, lives in the Le Havre area of France, and studied at the Université de Paris X in Nanterre. He fought in the Nicaraguan Revolution.

As Carlos and his band vacated the stage after their performance, we began looking for a poster or some other kind of information about the event. We walked over to the mixing table and saw a list of eight performers for the day:

Argentina - Cuarteto Cedron
Venezuela - José Alejandro Delgado
Ecuador - Trío Diamante Latino
Nicaragua - Carlos de Nicaragua y Familia
Colombia - Nancy Murillo
Bolivia - sextet (name not listed)
Chile - Kerube (folklore group)
Dominican Republic - violinist (name not listed)

We surmised that we missed the first two groups and that the group that was playing when we arrived at the garden was Trío Diamante Latino.

Tom spotted a colorfully dressed woman nearby and guessed that she might be one of the performers. He approached her, engaged her in conversation, and found that he was right.

The woman was Nancy Murillo. She lives in Paris and speaks fluent French. She was kind enough to give me a copy of her latest CD - Tia Yova - and pose for a photo with me.

Monique and Nancy Murillo
© Discover Paris!

We stayed to listen for the first couple of numbers that Nancy sang and were happy that we did! The crowd was warmed up after Carlos's performance and it took little effort on Nancy's part to get people up and dancing.

Nancy Murillo
© Discover Paris!

Two young women joined her on the stage to perform a routine...

Nancy Murillo and company
© Discover Paris!

...and then Nancy descended the stairs to engage the audience.

Several people hopped up and began salsa dancing. The couple pictured below was especially good!

Dancing to the sounds of Nancy Murillo 1
© Discover Paris!

Dancing to the sounds of Nancy Murillo 2
© Discover Paris!

Dancing to the sounds of Nancy Murillo 3
© Discover Paris!

We thoroughly enjoyed ourselves and regretted that we could not stay until the end of the concert.

Click here to learn more about Carlos de Nicaragua (information in English).

Click here to learn more about Nancy Murillo (information in French).




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Thursday, November 7, 2013

Sounds of the Luxembourg Garden at the British Museum

In April 2013, I was honored to have been asked to participate in a very special series of interviews called Paris – A Personal View. Des Coulam, whose passion is to record the sounds of Paris, is the creative genius behind the series. He recorded my observations of the Luxembourg Garden—my favorite place in Paris—as we took a leisurely walk through it.

Des Coulam and Monique Y. Wells
© Discover Paris!

Des fits Monique with a microphone
© Discover Paris!

I took Des to several of my preferred spots in the garden. Among them were the eastern terrace near the boat basin, where I showed Des an image of Loïs Mailou Jones’ 1948 painting of the Luxembourg Palace and the towers of Saint-Sulpice beyond, and the southernmost point of the parterre where I talked about Gaston Monnerville, brilliant legal mind and President of the French Senate. (A bust of Monnerville stands just outside the garden.)

Bust of Gaston Monnerville
© Discover Paris!

We ended at the gate nearest the rear of the Odéon Theater, where crocuses were in bloom.

Several days ago, Des wrote me to inform me that:

...the recording you made of your personal view of the Jardin de Luxembourg has now been ingested into the British Library Sound & Moving Image Archive in London. The catalogue reference is:

027A-C1540X0003XX-0100M0.WAV - Jardin de Luxembourg: A Personal View by Dr. Monique Y. Wells

Whilst the catalogue reference is available to everyone, the recording itself is only available for scientific, educational or other non-commercial purposes upon request to the British Library. The British Library only provide a listening service so the recording will not be made available for download.

So now your voice and your wonderful exposition of the Jardin de Luxembourg will be available for future generations to explore, to study and to enjoy. Bravo!

For those of you who are so inclined, I hope that you'll ask to listen to the audio when you visit the British Library. For those who'd like to enjoy the audio tour (and the beautiful photos that accompany it) from the comfort of your own home, click here!

Finally, I encourage all of you - whether residents or visitors - to take time to listen to the city at Des' Soundlandscapes' blog. You'll discover Paris from a fascinating new perspective!

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

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Thursday, May 10, 2012

7th Annual Day of Remembrance of the Slave Trade, Slavery, and Their Abolition

Today France observed its 7th annual Day of Remembrance of the Slave Trade, Slavery, and Their Abolition.

As has been customary since the first commemoration in 2006, an official ceremony was held in the Luxembourg Garden. A few drops of rain fell but the weather was fairly warm for the occasion. The garden was closed to all but those who had been invited and security was tight at the one entrance that was open for the morning ceremony.

Tom and I arrived in time to position ourselves close to the gazebo, which was bedecked with a colorful backdrop that included a photo of the garden's sculpture Le Cri, L'Ecrit and the plaque that pays homage to the slaves of the French colonies. This is where the ceremony took place.

Gazebo at the Luxembourg Garden
© Discover Paris!

Christiane Taubira, author of the French law that declares slavery and the slave trade a crime against humanity; Lilian Thuram, former soccer player and founder of the organization Education contre le Racisme (Education Against Racism); and François Durpaire, president of the movement l'Appel pour une République multiculturelle et postraciale (Call for a Multicultural and Post-racial Republic) were among the VIPs in the audience.

Lilian Thuram and François Durpaire
© Discover Paris!

Guadeloupan actor Greg Germain acted as Master of Ceremonies. He briefly explained how the ceremony would proceed and listed the names of the dignitaries that would attend the event. He then read poetry while we waited for them to arrive.

Greg Germain
© Discover Paris!

The dignitaries included Paris mayor Bertrand Delanoë; Françoise Vergès, president of the Committee for the Memory and History of Slavery; Jean-Pierre Bel, president of the French Senate, and none other than President-elect François Hollande! Nicolas Sarkozy, current leader of the French Republic, was announced by Germain as being part of the group, but he did not attend.

President-elect Hollande and the other dignitaries walked around the garden to greet those standing at the chain barrier between the crowd and the gazebo and then took their places on the stage.

The President-elect followed by the press
© Discover Paris!

President-elect François Hollande
© Discover Paris!

Françoise Vergès and Mayor Bertrand Delanoë
© Discover Paris!

Germain and fellow actor Nicole Dogué then read moving passages from the works of Edouard Glissant, Aimé Césaire, and Patrick Chamoiseau.

Greg Germain and Nicole Dogué center stage
© Discover Paris!

The culmination of the ceremony was an impassioned speech by Senate President Bel. He noted, among other things, that the Loi Taubira was passed unanimously by the Senate. He acknowledged the presence of several historians and anthropologists from the seven European nations that perpetrated the Transatlantic Slave Trade - England, Spain, Portugal, The Netherlands, Sweden, Denmark, and France - who stood behind and to the left of the podium on the stage. He spoke of the work that they and others are doing to uncover details about slave life and the Middle Passage.

Senate President Jean-Pierre Bel
© Discover Paris!

President-elect Hollande did not speak at the ceremony, but was interviewed by the press afterward.

At the end of the ceremony, attendees were invited to stroll around the garden to enjoy its beauty and to see the sculpture and commemorative plaque.

Le Cri, L'Ecrit (2007)
Sculpture erected in commemoration of the abolition of slavery in France
Fabrice Hyber
© Discover Paris!


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Thursday, February 17, 2011

U.S. Embassy Celebrates Black History Month with Discover Paris!™

For anyone looking for a tour with a warm and knowledgeable guide that goes beyond the usual monuments and landmarks, I highly recommend taking a Discover Paris! tour.

Arcadia Letkemann, TMM Public Outreach Coordinator/Special Projects
American Embassy Paris
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On Saturday, February 12th, fifteen staff members of the U.S. Embassy in Paris celebrated Black History Month by taking a Discover Paris! Entrée to Black Paris™ (ETBP) walk that I created especially for them. It incorporated elements of ETBP’s “Black Pearl Walk” and “Black History in and around the Luxembourg Garden” walk. I was pleased to be able to include several new tidbits of information that I recently uncovered through interviews and research!

The first part of Saturday’s walk focused on the personas of Josephine Baker and Beauford Delaney. We began at Place Josephine Baker in the 14th arrondissement, where I briefly presented Josephine’s legacy of performing, military service and French Resistance activities during WWII, and philanthropy.

At Place Josephine Baker
© Discover Paris
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We then visited the Bobino Theater – site of her last performance run in 1975 – and talked of the last days of her life and her funeral. We stopped near the wall of the Montparnasse cemetery, where I spoke of artist Beauford Delaney and his long-lasting friendship with James Baldwin. We then saw two hotels where Beauford lived during his first years in Paris, and got an unexpected glimpse of a courtyard that preserves the essence of “old Montparnasse.” The city of Paris razed the neighborhood in the 1960s and 70s, implementing an urban renewal project that favored profits over architectural aesthetics and the preservation of the area’s village atmosphere.

We went on to the Carrefour Vavin, where we continued to discuss Beauford and Josephine; for good measure I also offered an anecdote about African-American fighter pilot Eugene Bullard. All of the “Carrefour cafés”– Le Dôme, La Rotonde, Le Select, and La Coupole – have African-American history associated with them.

In front of Le Select
© Discover Paris!

Making our way to the Luxembourg Garden, we stopped briefly while I pointed out the former location of La Boule Blanche – one of the two most famous post-WWI Antillean clubs in Paris. People came here to dance the beguine, which was widely popularized when Josephine Baker included it in one of her dance performances in 1931.

We entered the garden at the southeast corner, where I talked briefly about the working apiary and the espaliered trees that exist there. We then wended our way along the gently curving paths to reach the Statue of Liberty. At the foot of the statue, I discussed the urban legend that claims that the sculptor used a black woman as the model and that the statue was conceived to honor the black soldiers who served during the Civil War.

Statue of Liberty
© Discover Paris!

During the remainder of our time in the garden, I talked about the “mutual admiration society” of Richard Wright and Gertrude Stein, the landscape paintings of Loïs Mailou Jones, and the Loi Taubira – the French law that declares slavery a crime against humanity. We ended our leisurely but eventful stroll at the Fabrice Hyber sculpture that commemorates the abolition of slavery in France.

Le Cri, L'Ecrit
Fabrice Hyber
© Discover Paris!

Arcadia Letkemann, Coordinator of TMM Public Outreach/Special Projects at the Embassy, had the following to say about the tour:

The Discover Paris! Black History Month walking tour, especially prepared for the American Embassy Paris, was a relaxing and informative experience. Don’t be daunted by the length of this tour; two hours went by quickly – especially because the tour was not strenuous and the pace was leisurely.

Monique Wells is a very personable and knowledgeable guide who was both well prepared and flexible; she even threw in information about landmarks, history and traditions that were not specifically geared to African-American history per se, but which enriched our understanding of the larger context that attracted black writers and artists to Paris during the 20th century.

For anyone looking for a tour with a warm and knowledgeable guide that goes beyond the usual monuments and landmarks, I highly recommend taking a Discover Paris! tour.

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.



Thursday, November 25, 2010

Remembering Richard Wright

Happy Thanksgiving from Discover Paris!

Each month, our Paris Insights newsletter presents the hidden jewels that comprise the "real" Paris – the people and places that are the true heart and soul of the city. Click here to sign up for our newsletter announcements and to receive our free guide called "Practical Paris”!

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 Richard Wright in Paris living room, 1947
Photo: National Archives

Richard Wright was the "kingpin" of the African-American expatriate writers who came to Paris after the Second World War. He promptly fell in love with the city upon his arrival in 1946, and returned to the U.S. after a few months to make arrangements to move to Paris permanently. He, his wife Ellen, and his daughter Julia returned in 1947. From his new home base in Paris, Wright would continue to write, travel the world, participate in the founding of the literary journal Presence Africaine, and act as speaker and liaison between the American and African delegations at the First International Congress of Negro Writers and Artists. He would end his days in the City of Light on November 28, 1960, at the age of fifty-two.

In commemoration of the 50th anniversary of Wright’s death, Discover Paris! has created a new edition of its downloadable, self-guided walking tour entitled "Richard Wright’s Paris."  The tour contains descriptive commentary and photographs of the numerous sites that Richard Wright frequented during the ten years that he lived in the Left Bank.  Those taking the tour will learn about his apartment, his favorite cafés and restaurant, his local bookstore, and the Luxembourg Garden - one of the most splendid gardens in Paris - where the Wright family had numerous neighborhood outings.

Plaque honoring Wright at 14, rue Monsieur le Prince
© Discover Paris!

Discover Paris! released the first edition of this tour in 2008, in celebration of the centennial of Wright’s birth.

The latest edition of the walking tour incorporates new text and enlargements of previously included photographs, as well as new photographs that illustrate the walk, a photographic portrait of Wright, a chronology of his life in Paris, and original photos of Père Lachaise Cemetery, his final resting place.  The latter section includes images of the columbarium, where Wright was cremated, and the niche containing his ashes.

As is true for all Discover Paris! walks, "Richard Wright's Paris" includes informed commentary, photographs and illustrations, and a map that highlights the route of the itinerary.  These allow you to navigate the sometimes confusing layout of the city with ease.  We also provide restaurant suggestions, eliminating your fear of selecting a less-than-satisfactory place to lunch or dine. The walk is available in pdf format.

To access the Web page for Discover Paris’ downloadable walking tours, click HERE.

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.