Showing posts with label Toussaint l'Ouverture. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Toussaint l'Ouverture. Show all posts

Thursday, July 13, 2017

Taste of Haiti: A Glimpse into the Haitian Community in Paris

By Tatiana Balabanis

Paris is home to a large variety of distinct cultures and a plethora of people who nurture those cultures so that they may continue to thrive in the diverse City of Lights.

One of the cultures that has found its place in contemporary Paris and continues to bloom outside of its island of origin is that of Haiti. Over 32,000 Haitians have made Paris their home, bringing with them the exotic flavors and tender charm of the Caribbean.

The Haitian community in Paris is strong and various parts of the island’s history can be seen are represented across the city. Examples include the plaque honoring the beloved leader of the Haitian Revolution, Toussaint Louverture, at the Pantheon across from the Luxembourg Garden and the works of Edgar Degas, notable painter and sculptor of Haitian descent, at the Musée d’Orsay.

As a Haitian-American who is interning in Paris this summer, I am excited to discover Haitian history and culture here! Upon my arrival, my mother and aunt (both of whom were born on the island) and I took a brief tour of the city to see what we could find of our heritage.

For formal affairs such as obtaining a visa, renewing a passport, or legalization of documents, we learned that Haitian citizens should go to the Ambassade d’Haiti (Haitian Embassy), found on 10 Rue Théodule Ribot. It is one of 169 foreign representations within Paris.
Haitian Embassy and flag
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Tatiana's mother (left) and aunt (right) at the Haitian Embassy
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

During our visit there, we found the people to be incredibly helpful and welcoming. They represent Haiti with pride and strive to do well by their fellow citizens. Though we were allowed to enter the building with no problem, we learned that we’d need to make an appointment if we had business to conduct there.

The next stop on our abridged tour of Paris’ Haitian community—abridged only because it would be impossible to cover all of Haiti’s presence in the city in just a few days—was the Haiti Market. This storefront market can be found in the heart of the 18th arrondissement amidst an assortment of African and Caribbean markets and shops.

Haïti Market – rue des Poissonniers
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Awning at Haïti Market
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

With a constant supply of fresh produce, freeze-dried fish products, and various beverages from the island, Haiti Market provides its neighborhood with an authentic feel of food shopping in Haiti.

Dried fish
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Down to the island’s own famous rum, Rhum Barbancourt, this market has it all. And for those in search of how to spice up any dish, go here for the finest selection of Scotch Bonnet peppers.

Scotch Bonnet peppers
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

While Haiti Market is a wonderful place for finding the ingredients required to make Haitian food at home, Paris also has many restaurants in which you can experience the art of the island’s cuisine. Haitian cooking combines a wide range of rich and powerful flavors, each one amplifying the next, all coming together to produce a culinary experience unlike any other.

For a genuine gastronomic experience, make your way to the 13th arrondissement and visit Twoubadou. Located at 70 Boulevard de l'Hôpital, this intimate eatery is a must-go for enjoying Haitian food the way it was meant to be experienced. The ambiance of twoubadou music (the genre of Haitian music after which the restaurant is named) playing in the background combined with the incredible food will transport you to the island. With traditional dishes being served all day long, you can stop in for a midday snack, a full meal, or even just a few specialty drinks native to Haitian culture.

Twoubadou dining room
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Whatever takes you there, don’t leave before trying the Blanc Mangé—a childhood favorite of mine. This sweet, coconut-based gelatin dessert spiced with cinnamon and anise will complete your meal and leave you feeling very satisfied with your Twoubadou adventure.

Blanc Mangé
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

These are just a few of many stops for Haitian culture in Paris. The list goes on and on, but at the heart of it all is the fact that Paris has been a cradle for Haitian culture unlike any other. It is easy to see the ways in which this rich and dynamic culture is and always will be greatly valued and appreciated here.

Tatiana Balabanis is a rising junior at Stanford University. She is currently serving as a summer intern for the Wells International Foundation.

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, April 30, 2015

Blacks on Stage at the Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin


Cover of the first-edition publication of A Raisin in the Sun

A musical rendition of Lorraine Hansbury's A Raisin in the Sun opened at the Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin on April 21, 1979.

Théâtre de la Porte Saint-Martin
2009 Creative Commons License - Danglars2

Directed by Charles Axton, it starred Sandra Phillips as "Mama," Nate Barnett as "Walter Lee,", and Corliss Taylor-Dunn as "Ruth."

Though it came to Paris 36 years ago, Raisin in the Sun is the most recent of a long line of plays featuring black characters at the Porte Saint-Martin. The productions that preceded it were staged in the 19th century!

Between 1803 and 1892, at least eleven productions performed at the theater included black characters in the cast. But this is not to say that black people played these roles. The first black actors to appear on stage in Paris did so in 1847, and they were poorly received by audiences.

In April 1824, one of four versions of a play based on the popular novel called Ourika, by Claire de Duras, opened at the Porte Saint-Martin theater. The story line of Ourika, ou l'orpheline africaine (Ourika, or the African orphan), was fairly true to the novel - a young Senegalese girl is raised as a white French girl by an aristocratic couple and accidentally discovers her race when she overhears a conversation where two women are discussing her misfortune at never being able to marry a French man.

Ourika
1924 Léonel de la Tourrasse

The novel was based on a true story about a black child who was purchased in or around 1788 by the Chevalier de Boufflers, the colonial administrator of Senegal, and given as a gift to the Duchess of Orléans. She dies of a mysterious illness at the age of sixteen.

In this production, the part of Ourika was played by French actress Marie Dorval.

Marie Dorval
Lithograph by Paul Delaroche
Public domain

Frédérick Lemâitre, a famous 19th-century actor, portrayed four black characters at the theater throughout the years, including Toussaint l'Ouverture (in a play of the same name) in 1850.

Toussaint l'Ouverture
Public domain

Frédérick Lemaître
Public domain

Ironically, many plays by Victor Séjour - a free man of color from Louisiana - were staged at the Porte Saint-Martin between 1852 and 1862, but none of them had black characters.

Victor Séjour
Public domain

In July 1937, Langston Hughes (whose poem "Harlem" was the inspiration for A Raisin in the Sun) spoke at the International Writers' Congress at the theater.

Langston Hughes
1936 Carl Van Vechten

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, November 13, 2014

Black Pantheon

Paris' Pantheon is a landmark site in the 5th arrondissement that we have included on two of our most popular Entrée to Black Paris walks. It sits at the top of rue de la Montagne Sainte-Geneviève (Saint Genevieve's mountain), only a few hundred meters away from the Luxembourg Garden.

Pantheon viewed from the Luxembourg Garden
© Discover Paris!

From a "black Paris" perspective, the Pantheon has many interesting features:

It is the final resting place of two men of African descent - Alexandre Dumas, père and Félix Eboué. Information boards on both men can be found in the crypt.

Dumas' remains were relocated there with much pomp and ceremony in 2002.

Pantheon in red, white, and blue for the interment of Alexandre Dumas
© Discover Paris!

Three black men are honored by inscriptions in the crypt - Toussaint L'Ouverture, Louis Delgres, and Aimé Césaire.

Inscription in honor of Toussaint l'Ouverture
© Discover Paris!

L'Ouverture's inscription reads:

IN MEMORY OF TOUSSAINT LOUVERTURE
Freedom Fighter - Artisan of the abolition of slavery
Haitian Hero - Died in deportation at Fort-de-Joux in 1803

There are images of blacks in the Alexandre Cabanel mural depicting the life of Saint Louis found inside the building.

The Life of Saint Louis (detail)
1874-1877 Alexandre Cabanel
© Discover Paris!

While its interior is not the most beautiful, the Pantheon was spectacularly transformed for the ceremonial events held in honor of Aimé Césaire after his death in 2008.

Homage to Aimé Césaire
© Discover Paris!

Black French have contributed to the current renovation of the monument. Their photos are displayed on the north gate along with those of several other donors.

Four contributors to the Pantheon restoration
© Discover Paris!

The Pantheon remains open during its restoration. It is located at:
Place du Panthéon
75005 Paris
Telephone: 01 44 32 18 00
Closest public transporation: RER B - Luxembourg
Entry fee: 7.50 euros; 4.50 euros for non-EU persons between the ages of 18-25

Pantheon dome under restoration
© Discover Paris!

************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Thursday, April 14, 2011

Aimé Césaire at the Pantheon

On April 6, 2011, France commemorated the life and work of Aimé Césaire at the Pantheon. French President Nicolas Sarkozy presided over a grand ceremony that was broadcast live on France 2 and France ô, as well as on giant screens installed outside the building.

Ceremony viewed outside the Pantheon
© Patrick Kolavik, AFP


Roughly 1000 persons were invited to participate in the ceremony, including Césaire's family, junior and senior high school students from Martinique and France, and students from the Paris' prestigious educational institutions Louis le Grand (high school) and l'Ecole Normale Supérieure (college). Césaire attended both of these schools in his youth.

To celebrate the event, entry to the Pantheon was free from April 7-10. I took advantage of this opportunity to photograph the visual and literary tributes to Césaire that were mounted inside.

The famous pendulum of Foucault was dismantled for the occasion so that a huge fresco comprised of four images representing different periods of Césaire's life could be projected from the ceiling of the nave onto a disc-shaped screen below. An eight-minute film by Euzhan Palcy that reviews the life of the revered poet and statesman was not functioning during my visit.

Image of Césaire fresco and its location in the Pantheon


View of Césaire fresco and projection screen in background
© Discover Paris!


Four quotations from Césaire's works were displayed in front of the stone pillars that border the nave. The works quoted were Cahier d'un retour du pays natal (1939), Tropiques (1943), Moi, Laminaire (1982) and La Poésie (1993).

Quotation from La Poésie (1993)
© Discover Paris!


A plaque that honors the memory of Césaire and his work has been placed in the crypt. It lies between Caves XXV and XXVI. Alexandre Dumas, père and Félix Eboué are laid to rest close by, in Caves XXIV and XXVI, respectively. Dumas and Eboué are the only two men of African descent whose remains are found in the Pantheon. Césaire's remains are interred in Martinique, his native land.

Aimé Césaire plaque
© Discover Paris!


While in this corner of the Pantheon's crypt, visitors should not fail to look for the plaques that honor Toussaint l'Ouverture and Louis Delgres as well. These are located along the side walls of the short passage that leads to the tombs of Félix Eboué and Victor Schoelcher in Cave XXVI.

In the souvenir shop that is located at the exit, there were two tables stacked with books written by or about Césaire. A number of visitors took their time examining the tomes and leafing through them.


Looking at books
© Discover Paris!


The montage for the ceremony in Césaire's honor was quite striking, and the plaque will serve as a permanent reminder of this great man.

Homage to Aimé Césaire
© Discover Paris!



************


Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.