Showing posts with label Afro-Créole cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Afro-Créole cuisine. Show all posts

Thursday, August 17, 2017

Haïti at Home: La Cuisine Créole - Part 2

No Haitian meal is complete without a little something sweet to finish it off. One of my favorite desserts is blancmangé. This coconut-based gelatin dessert perfectly highlights the sweet island flavor of coconut in an unconventional texture of dessert.

Blancmangé is a well-known and widely enjoyed all across the French West Indies. When I told some Martinican friends of mine that I was preparing this dish, the excited expressions on their faces perfectly captured the sentiment shared among me and all my family members when my aunt brings out dessert at the end of our family celebrations.

To begin my preparation of blancmangé, I started with a journey to TropicMarché, an Antillean supermarket in St. Ouen. This is where I purchased the coconut milk, condensed milk, cinnamon, and vanilla essence.

TropicMarché - façade
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

They also sell a powdered mix of pre-prepared blancmangé which only requires the addition of hot and cold water, but I wanted to make it from scratch.

The most important part of going to an authentic Antillean supermarket to buy my ingredients was finding the right vanilla essence. Back home, my grandfather prepares vanilla essence from scratch and that’s the kind we always used in my household. I wanted to make sure I could get something as close to Grandpa’s essence de vanille as I could find. I found a brand that had a stamp indicating its production was in the French West Indies.

Vanilla essence (extract)
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

The rest of the ingredients, which were simply a packet of gelatin sheets and sweetened shredded coconut, I was able to find at my neighborhood Monoprix.

Ingredients for Blancmangé
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

For the recipe, I had to make a call to my Aunt Chantal, who is the blancmangé expert in our family. She guided me through the process to make sure I captured the right flavors and consistency of the dessert.

The first step was to prepare the gelatin. I used gelatin sheets, but you can also use powdered gelatin.

Be sure to follow the instructions on the packaging for the correct measurements of hot much water to add! This can make a big difference because if you add too much water, the blancmangé will not solidify to its proper consistency.

Soak 5 sheets of gelatin in cold water for approximately 5 minutes.

Soaking the gelatin sheets
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Then, bring 20 cl of water to a boil. Add the wet sheets of gelatin to the boiling water and stir until the sheets have completely dissolved.

Dissolving the gelatin sheets
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Next, in a large bowl, mix 400 g of condensed milk, 200 g of coconut milk, the dissolved gelatin mixture, and an additional 15 cl of water. Thoroughly whisk these ingredients together until they are evenly distributed. Add a dash of vanilla essence and a pinch of cinnamon and whisk them in.

Milk mixture and vanilla
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

After you’ve prepared this mixture, transfer it into a relatively flat mold. Any baking mold will do, but traditionally a circular bundt cake mold is used for the most aesthetic final product.

Put this mold in the fridge and let the blancmangé sit for a minimum of 6 hours. For the best results, leave it in the fridge overnight.

Blancmangé in the refrigerator
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Now, for the coconut shreds. To garnish the blancmangé and give it a little crunch, toasted coconut shreds are sprinkled on top the dessert once it has fully set.

To toast the shreds, simply put a frying pan over medium heat and spread the shreds across the pan, periodically moving them around in the pan until they reach a brownish color.



Toasting coconut shreds
Images courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Store the toasted coconut shreds at room temperature until you are ready to serve the blancmangé.

Once it has fully settled and you are ready to eat the blancmangé, flip the container onto a plate or any flat serving tray, sprinkle the toasted coconut shreds on top, and voilà! You have yourself a delicious Haitian dessert that everyone is sure to enjoy.

Blancmangé - plated and garnished
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Tatiana Balabanis is a rising junior at Stanford University. She is currently serving as a summer intern for the Wells International Foundation.

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Thursday, July 20, 2017

Haïti at Home: La Cuisine Créole - Part 1

By Tatiana Balabanis

Food has the incredible ability to transport you to any location at anytime. Whether it’s the smell of freshly baked baguettes that reminds you of your favorite boulangerie in Paris or the preparation of your favorite meal that brings you right back to your kitchen at home, the power of food is insurmountable and incomparable.

Being in Paris means that I'm a a long way from my home in Miami. I often miss eating a home cooked meal with my family, which happens to be comprised of several great cooks, each with their own specialty. To remedy this homesickness, I’ve taken to the kitchen. I made some FaceTime calls to get the recipe from my mom and was lucky enough to have my aunt visiting me when I tackled this project. She was on the scene to offer some help and guidance when I got stuck.

Paris is, without a doubt, one of the gastronomical capitals of the world. It also happens to be home to a diverse group of communities from all corners of the world. This comes in handy when I’m looking to buy all the ingredients to make one of my favorite meals - poulet créole en sauce avec maïs collé (chicken creole in sauce with cornmeal and beans). So I hopped on the metro and went over to the 18th arrondissement to find all the ingredients I needed.

The Ingredients

My first stop, naturally, was Haiti Market. This is where I purchased all my produce: a lime, 2 onions, and a bulb of garlic. I also picked up some Maggi, a specific brand of cubed seasoned salt. and for the main dish, I bought a kilo of coarse maïs moulu (cornmeal) and a kilo of dry red beans. This was a much greater quantity than I need to make one meal but those were the smallest packages available and the deals couldn’t be beat! All of this cost under €10!

Ingredients from Haiti Market
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

Next, I went down the street to Rue Dejean. This street is packed with vendors and their loyal buyers on Saturdays, selling everything from watches to watermelons. The hustle and bustle of this street is unique to the people who bring it to life, and it’s quite the experience getting to be a part of that, even if just for a few moments.

I made my way over to one of the butcher stands and proceeded to buy what I needed for the protein of the dish- chicken thighs. After a friendly exchange with the butcher, I was on my way back to my apartment to commence the preparation of this meal.

Left: Marché Dejean; Right: Chicken Thighs
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

The Preparation

Fixin's for Poulet créole en sauce avec maïs collé
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

This meal is not the quickest in terms of preparation and cooking time, but the final product is definitely worth the effort. The bulk of the preparation time comes from cooking the beans.

To start, rinse the beans thoroughly with water. Measure out ½ cup of beans, place them into a bowl, and run water over them. Run your hands through the beans to make sure you get all of the dirt off of them.

Next, drain the beans and place them into a pot with 2 whole cloves of peeled garlic, a pinch of salt, and 3 cups of water. Put medium heat under the beans and cover them.

Let the beans cook for 1 to 1½ hours, until they are thoroughly cooked and semi-soft. Make sure to check them periodically as the water may completely evaporate. In this case, simply add more water and continue cooking.

Left: Washing beans; Right: Red beans and garlic
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

While the beans are on the stove, season the chicken. The pieces of chicken I purchased were on the large side, so I cut them in two. This, along with making incisions in the flesh (see image below) allows for more surface area to absorb the seasoning.

Scored chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Next, the chicken must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. To do this, start by boiling approximately two cups of water. Then, with the chicken in a heat-resistant container, rub it down with lime halves (two should suffice). When the water comes to a boil and the chicken has been coated in lime, carefully pour the boiling water over the chicken and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. I recommend doing this in a sink for minimal cleanup in the event of water spilling over.

Cleaning chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

After the chicken has sat in the hot water for 2-3 minutes, drain the water and move the chicken into a container big enough to season it.

For the seasoning, mix the juice of 1 lime, 1 cube of Maggi, 1 onion (chopped), and 3 large cloves of garlic (also chopped) in a small bowl. Pour this mixture over the chicken and turn the chicken over in the seasoning repeatedly to assure that every inch of chicken is seasoned. Next, cover the chicken and place it in the fridge until you are ready to cook it.

Chicken with onions and garlic
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

After about an hour, the beans should be soft. Using a draining spoon or a skimmer, transfer them into another pot. Keep the water that they were cooked in; you’ll use this to cook the maïs (cornmeal).

Transferring beans
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Sauté the beans in 2 tablespoons of oil with ¼ of an onion, chopped; 2 minced cloves of garlic; and salt to taste. After these ingredients are sautéed, add the water from the beans and 1 cup of cornmeal to this pot.

Adding bean water to the pot
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Stir continuously for 3 minutes or until the cornmeal begins to absorb most of the water. Then, leave the pot covered and on low heat for approximately 10 minutes, stirring the cornmeal and beans every minute or so.

Cooking beans and cornmeal
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

Now to cook the chicken. Place the seasoned chicken in a pot with roughly 3 tablespoons of water and set it on the stove over medium heat. If you have tomato sauce or tomato paste handy, add 2 tablespoons to the pot to give the chicken some color. The tomato flavor also helps bring out the flavors from the seasoning. Leave the chicken cooking on the stove, covered, for approximately 25 minutes, checking on it occasionally and flipping it halfway through.

Browning chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Once the chicken is fully cooked and tender (there should be no pink parts when it is cut into), remove it from the pot. Preserve the juices it made while being cooked; this will be the base of the sauce.

In the same pot in which you cooked the chicken, add ¼ cup of water and ¼ of a onion, chopped. Feel free to add some tomatoes or red bell peppers as well, if you have some available. Let this simmer before pouring on top of the chicken, la pièce de résistance!

Sauce
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis


The Final Product


The meal is officially complete! All that is left to do is serve the chicken with the sauce and maïs with the beans and enjoy your home cooked Haitian meal!

Left: Chicken and sauce; Right: cornmeal and beans
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Tatiana Balabanis is a rising junior at Stanford University. She is currently serving as a summer intern for the Wells International Foundation.

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

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Thursday, July 13, 2017

Taste of Haiti: A Glimpse into the Haitian Community in Paris

By Tatiana Balabanis

Paris is home to a large variety of distinct cultures and a plethora of people who nurture those cultures so that they may continue to thrive in the diverse City of Lights.

One of the cultures that has found its place in contemporary Paris and continues to bloom outside of its island of origin is that of Haiti. Over 32,000 Haitians have made Paris their home, bringing with them the exotic flavors and tender charm of the Caribbean.

The Haitian community in Paris is strong and various parts of the island’s history can be seen are represented across the city. Examples include the plaque honoring the beloved leader of the Haitian Revolution, Toussaint Louverture, at the Pantheon across from the Luxembourg Garden and the works of Edgar Degas, notable painter and sculptor of Haitian descent, at the Musée d’Orsay.

As a Haitian-American who is interning in Paris this summer, I am excited to discover Haitian history and culture here! Upon my arrival, my mother and aunt (both of whom were born on the island) and I took a brief tour of the city to see what we could find of our heritage.

For formal affairs such as obtaining a visa, renewing a passport, or legalization of documents, we learned that Haitian citizens should go to the Ambassade d’Haiti (Haitian Embassy), found on 10 Rue Théodule Ribot. It is one of 169 foreign representations within Paris.
Haitian Embassy and flag
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Tatiana's mother (left) and aunt (right) at the Haitian Embassy
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

During our visit there, we found the people to be incredibly helpful and welcoming. They represent Haiti with pride and strive to do well by their fellow citizens. Though we were allowed to enter the building with no problem, we learned that we’d need to make an appointment if we had business to conduct there.

The next stop on our abridged tour of Paris’ Haitian community—abridged only because it would be impossible to cover all of Haiti’s presence in the city in just a few days—was the Haiti Market. This storefront market can be found in the heart of the 18th arrondissement amidst an assortment of African and Caribbean markets and shops.

Haïti Market – rue des Poissonniers
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Awning at Haïti Market
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

With a constant supply of fresh produce, freeze-dried fish products, and various beverages from the island, Haiti Market provides its neighborhood with an authentic feel of food shopping in Haiti.

Dried fish
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Down to the island’s own famous rum, Rhum Barbancourt, this market has it all. And for those in search of how to spice up any dish, go here for the finest selection of Scotch Bonnet peppers.

Scotch Bonnet peppers
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

While Haiti Market is a wonderful place for finding the ingredients required to make Haitian food at home, Paris also has many restaurants in which you can experience the art of the island’s cuisine. Haitian cooking combines a wide range of rich and powerful flavors, each one amplifying the next, all coming together to produce a culinary experience unlike any other.

For a genuine gastronomic experience, make your way to the 13th arrondissement and visit Twoubadou. Located at 70 Boulevard de l'Hôpital, this intimate eatery is a must-go for enjoying Haitian food the way it was meant to be experienced. The ambiance of twoubadou music (the genre of Haitian music after which the restaurant is named) playing in the background combined with the incredible food will transport you to the island. With traditional dishes being served all day long, you can stop in for a midday snack, a full meal, or even just a few specialty drinks native to Haitian culture.

Twoubadou dining room
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Whatever takes you there, don’t leave before trying the Blanc Mangé—a childhood favorite of mine. This sweet, coconut-based gelatin dessert spiced with cinnamon and anise will complete your meal and leave you feeling very satisfied with your Twoubadou adventure.

Blanc Mangé
Image courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

These are just a few of many stops for Haitian culture in Paris. The list goes on and on, but at the heart of it all is the fact that Paris has been a cradle for Haitian culture unlike any other. It is easy to see the ways in which this rich and dynamic culture is and always will be greatly valued and appreciated here.

Tatiana Balabanis is a rising junior at Stanford University. She is currently serving as a summer intern for the Wells International Foundation.

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

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Thursday, May 11, 2017

Creole Cuisine at the Foire de Paris


The Académie de l'Art Culinaire du Monde Créole hosted an all-day event featuring Creole cuisine at the Foire de Paris (Paris Fair) last week.

MC Laura provided lively commentary as various local chefs prepared recipes for foods and beverages before a live audience.


Laura, Mistress of Ceremonies
© Discover Paris!

Chefs Tristan Tharsis and Yannis Artigny teamed up to prepare Pain au beurre et Chocolat martiniquais, a traditional combination served at special occasions such as weddings and baptisms.

Chef Artigny prepared the bread,

Chef Yannis Artigny
© Discover Paris!

while Chef Tharsis prepared the hot chocolate.

Chef Tristan Tharsis
© Discover Paris!

Chef Elis Bond prepared multiple Afro-Caribbean fusion dishes.

Chef Elis Bond
© Discover Paris!

He also worked with nutritionist Dr. Marie-Antoinette Séjean, who shared tips on how to prepare light and healthy Creole meals. Dr. Séjean is president of the French association Nutricréole and the ambassadrice santé (Health Ambassador) for the Académie.

Dr. Marie-Antoinette Séjean
© Discover Paris!

Healthy Créole Cuisine
© Discover Paris!

Chef Xavier Guillaume Sivager prepared a flaming plantain and bacon dish called Croustillant de banane au lard.

Chef Xavier Guillaume Sivager
© Discover Paris!

Flaming the plantains
© Discover Paris!


Chef Ayaba prepared several varieties of vegan Boules d'énergie gourmandes Kâ. These were made from ground nuts, dates, and other ingredients rolled into balls and coated with shredded coconut.

Chef Ayaba
© Discover Paris!

Gourmet Energy Ball
© Discover Paris!

And Chef Stéphane Sorbon demonstrated how to make exotic cocktails.

Chef Stéphane Sorbon
© Discover Paris!

Other chefs who participated in the culinary event (but whose photographs are not shown here) are Béatrice Fabignon, who prepared seafood dishes, and Vanessa Kichenin, who prepared Indo-Guadeloupian lentil fritters.

Some of the cooking demonstrations were interactive, with members of the audience joining the chefs on stage to learn firsthand how to prepare the recipes.

Processing ingredients
© Discover Paris!

Peeling and seasoning
© Discover Paris!


Contemplating cocktails
© Discover Paris!

Several of the participating chefs are members of the Cercle des Jeunes Chefs Créoles (Circle of Young Creole Chefs), of which Chef Xavier Guillaume Sivager is president.

The Académie also hosted a food photography exhibition, with images taken by chefs as well as amateur and professional photographers. It sponsored a drawing for an airline ticket to the French Caribbean (winner: Abauzit Sylviane) and awarded the Prix Savoirs et Saveurs Créole (Creole Expertise and Flavors Prize) to the best Créole gastronomy stand at the fair.


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