Showing posts with label Créole cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Créole cuisine. Show all posts

Thursday, July 20, 2017

Haïti at Home: La Cuisine Créole - Part 1

By Tatiana Balabanis

Food has the incredible ability to transport you to any location at anytime. Whether it’s the smell of freshly baked baguettes that reminds you of your favorite boulangerie in Paris or the preparation of your favorite meal that brings you right back to your kitchen at home, the power of food is insurmountable and incomparable.

Being in Paris means that I'm a a long way from my home in Miami. I often miss eating a home cooked meal with my family, which happens to be comprised of several great cooks, each with their own specialty. To remedy this homesickness, I’ve taken to the kitchen. I made some FaceTime calls to get the recipe from my mom and was lucky enough to have my aunt visiting me when I tackled this project. She was on the scene to offer some help and guidance when I got stuck.

Paris is, without a doubt, one of the gastronomical capitals of the world. It also happens to be home to a diverse group of communities from all corners of the world. This comes in handy when I’m looking to buy all the ingredients to make one of my favorite meals - poulet créole en sauce avec maïs collé (chicken creole in sauce with cornmeal and beans). So I hopped on the metro and went over to the 18th arrondissement to find all the ingredients I needed.

The Ingredients

My first stop, naturally, was Haiti Market. This is where I purchased all my produce: a lime, 2 onions, and a bulb of garlic. I also picked up some Maggi, a specific brand of cubed seasoned salt. and for the main dish, I bought a kilo of coarse maïs moulu (cornmeal) and a kilo of dry red beans. This was a much greater quantity than I need to make one meal but those were the smallest packages available and the deals couldn’t be beat! All of this cost under €10!

Ingredients from Haiti Market
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

Next, I went down the street to Rue Dejean. This street is packed with vendors and their loyal buyers on Saturdays, selling everything from watches to watermelons. The hustle and bustle of this street is unique to the people who bring it to life, and it’s quite the experience getting to be a part of that, even if just for a few moments.

I made my way over to one of the butcher stands and proceeded to buy what I needed for the protein of the dish- chicken thighs. After a friendly exchange with the butcher, I was on my way back to my apartment to commence the preparation of this meal.

Left: Marché Dejean; Right: Chicken Thighs
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

The Preparation

Fixin's for Poulet créole en sauce avec maïs collé
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

This meal is not the quickest in terms of preparation and cooking time, but the final product is definitely worth the effort. The bulk of the preparation time comes from cooking the beans.

To start, rinse the beans thoroughly with water. Measure out ½ cup of beans, place them into a bowl, and run water over them. Run your hands through the beans to make sure you get all of the dirt off of them.

Next, drain the beans and place them into a pot with 2 whole cloves of peeled garlic, a pinch of salt, and 3 cups of water. Put medium heat under the beans and cover them.

Let the beans cook for 1 to 1½ hours, until they are thoroughly cooked and semi-soft. Make sure to check them periodically as the water may completely evaporate. In this case, simply add more water and continue cooking.

Left: Washing beans; Right: Red beans and garlic
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

While the beans are on the stove, season the chicken. The pieces of chicken I purchased were on the large side, so I cut them in two. This, along with making incisions in the flesh (see image below) allows for more surface area to absorb the seasoning.

Scored chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Next, the chicken must be thoroughly cleaned and disinfected. To do this, start by boiling approximately two cups of water. Then, with the chicken in a heat-resistant container, rub it down with lime halves (two should suffice). When the water comes to a boil and the chicken has been coated in lime, carefully pour the boiling water over the chicken and let it sit for 2-3 minutes. I recommend doing this in a sink for minimal cleanup in the event of water spilling over.

Cleaning chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

After the chicken has sat in the hot water for 2-3 minutes, drain the water and move the chicken into a container big enough to season it.

For the seasoning, mix the juice of 1 lime, 1 cube of Maggi, 1 onion (chopped), and 3 large cloves of garlic (also chopped) in a small bowl. Pour this mixture over the chicken and turn the chicken over in the seasoning repeatedly to assure that every inch of chicken is seasoned. Next, cover the chicken and place it in the fridge until you are ready to cook it.

Chicken with onions and garlic
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

After about an hour, the beans should be soft. Using a draining spoon or a skimmer, transfer them into another pot. Keep the water that they were cooked in; you’ll use this to cook the maïs (cornmeal).

Transferring beans
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Sauté the beans in 2 tablespoons of oil with ¼ of an onion, chopped; 2 minced cloves of garlic; and salt to taste. After these ingredients are sautéed, add the water from the beans and 1 cup of cornmeal to this pot.

Adding bean water to the pot
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Stir continuously for 3 minutes or until the cornmeal begins to absorb most of the water. Then, leave the pot covered and on low heat for approximately 10 minutes, stirring the cornmeal and beans every minute or so.

Cooking beans and cornmeal
Photos courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis
Collage © Discover Paris!

Now to cook the chicken. Place the seasoned chicken in a pot with roughly 3 tablespoons of water and set it on the stove over medium heat. If you have tomato sauce or tomato paste handy, add 2 tablespoons to the pot to give the chicken some color. The tomato flavor also helps bring out the flavors from the seasoning. Leave the chicken cooking on the stove, covered, for approximately 25 minutes, checking on it occasionally and flipping it halfway through.

Browning chicken
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Once the chicken is fully cooked and tender (there should be no pink parts when it is cut into), remove it from the pot. Preserve the juices it made while being cooked; this will be the base of the sauce.

In the same pot in which you cooked the chicken, add ¼ cup of water and ¼ of a onion, chopped. Feel free to add some tomatoes or red bell peppers as well, if you have some available. Let this simmer before pouring on top of the chicken, la pièce de résistance!

Sauce
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis


The Final Product


The meal is officially complete! All that is left to do is serve the chicken with the sauce and maïs with the beans and enjoy your home cooked Haitian meal!

Left: Chicken and sauce; Right: cornmeal and beans
Photo courtesy of Tatiana Balabanis

Tatiana Balabanis is a rising junior at Stanford University. She is currently serving as a summer intern for the Wells International Foundation.

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Thursday, March 16, 2017

BAO - A New Afro-Créole Supermarket

The sister-brother team of Sona, Kossi, and Lemba Muluala recently opened what many people in Ile de France likely consider a godsend - a modern, full-service Afro-Créole supermarket.

BAO storefront
Screenshot from BAO video

BAO, which is "short" for BAOBAB, opened on December 10, 2016. It is stocked with more than 2,000 items sourced from producers and distributors in the Caribbean, Africa and the Indian Ocean.

The Mulualas, who are Franco-Congolese, were inspired to launch their store because of their childhood memories of how difficult it was for their mother to find ingredients for their favorite recipes in their neighborhood. Not only did she need to travel an hour to get into Paris, she also had to shop in multiple places to find everything she needed and contend with merchants who were not familiar with the products they were selling. It often took a good half-day to get the shopping done and return home.

Sona and Kossi Muluala
Screenshot from BAO video

The Mulualas are committed to providing authentic, high quality items at the best possible price. They sell fresh and frozen foods, including Hallal meat, fruits and vegetables, cooking oils and condiments, spices, juices and other beverages, and Créole specialities such as pigtails, turban squash, breadfruit, Créoline sauce, and Floup ice cream.

Stocked shelves
Screenshot from BAO video

African eggplants
Screenshot from BAO video

Palm oil from Congo
Screenshot from BAO video

Frozen goat-filled samossas from Reunion Island
Screenshot from BAO video

To watch them present BAO on video (in French), click HERE.

BAO is located in the Paris suburb of Bobigny. The supermarket is open from Monday to Saturday from 10 AM to 8 PM.

BAO
Centre Commercial Bobigny 2
Boulevard Maurice Thorez
93000 Bobigny
www.bao-marche.com

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Thursday, June 16, 2011

La Charrette Créole - Cuisine from the Indian Ocean

Recently, Tom and I had the occasion to dine at La Charrette Créole, a friendly little Indian Ocean oasis in the heart of Montparnasse. It is located next door to the former address of Chez Honey, an art gallery/night club operated by Herb Gentry and his first wife, Honey Johnson, during the heyday of the post World War II African-American expat era. The restaurant won the coveted Marmite d'Or award in 2009, so we were anxious to sample the dishes that they prepare.

Façade of La Charrette Créole
© Discover Paris!

We were greeted warmly by the proprietor, Sylvain, who is from Mauritius. He heard us speaking English as we perused the menu outside, and he instantly began speaking to us in English as he welcomed us inside. His wife, Sidonie (from Madagascar) was equally friendly.

We were seated at a corner table next to the short side of the bar, as much of the small dining room was occupied by tables for four to eight persons. Several large parties arrived during the evening, and we were grateful to have our privacy.

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We were in the mood for culinary exploration that evening, so we began by ordering rhum arrangés (flavored rums). Mine was ginger-flavored, and Tom's was flavored with a citrus fruit called combava, which is native to the region. I envied Tom his drink, because I found it to be much more to my liking than my ginger concoction!

The condiments for our meal were placed on the table at the same time that our drinks were served. They consisted of rougail tomates (a sort of tomato salsa), rougail cacahuetes (a grainy, peanut paste), and piment (pulverized hot, green peppers in a thick sauce).

Condiments
© Discover Paris!

For the first course, I ordered bouchons saucisses and Tom ordered beignets de chouchou (christophène). We failed to remember that portions in Creole restaurants tend to be copious, and were surprised to find six morsels of our selected entrée plus a generous salad of achards de légumes (a slaw) on our plates. Tom consumed his entire dish, while I prudently left room for the courses that would follow.

Beignets de chouchou
© Discover Paris!


Bouchons saucisses
© Discover Paris!

For the main course, both Tom and I selected cabri massalé, which was stewed goat marinated in numerous spices. It was served with red beans and basmati rice. We both found the goat to be scrumptious! I was happy that I did not finish my starter so that I could fully enjoy this dish. Again, I prudently forewent eating a full serving of rice and beans during this course so that I could save room for dessert.

Cabri massalé
© Discover Paris!

Tom ordered a Madagascan beer - Three Horses - to accompany his meal. It was a pilsner, and he thought it was of average quality.

Desserts are always on the simple side in Creole restaurants. We both opted for ice cream and/or sorbet for this course. The restaurant offers three scoops of one or more flavors on their list. I decided to take advantage of my ability to choose multiple flavors, and selected corrosol, lime, and ginger. Tom chose to order three scoops of corrosol (soursop). The scoops were moderately sized, and each was topped with a dollop of whipped cream. We both found our selections to be light and not overly sweet. They were the perfect culmination to our meal.

When we asked for the check, we were served a complimentary rhum arrangé that is called simply "rhum arrangé." Flavored with cinnamon, ginger, and vanilla, we found it to be quite good. Next time we visit La Charrette Créole, we may well order this particular drink as our apéritif.
Rhum arrangé
© Discover Paris!

Service was friendly though somewhat uneven, with multiple servers coming to our table throughout the evening. The most exuberant of our servers was Lucie from Madagascar, pictured below.
Lucie, our server
© Discover Paris!

Dinner for two was a modest 57 euros. Based on the quality of the food and the prices on the menu, we intend to return to La Charrette Créole!

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