Chef Loïc Dablé Brings Afro-fusion Cuisine to the Musée Dapper

Contemporary African cuisine is now being served on weekends at the Dapper Museum!

Chef Loïc Dablé of Star Chef fame is at the helm of the newest iteration of the Café Dapper, which opened its doors on October 2.

Chef Loïc Dablé
Through the new restaurant and his numerous other culinary activities, Chef Dablé proposes to create a new definition of African cuisine. He has created menus for lunch, dinner, and brunch, as well as several à la carte offerings for the restaurant.

A graduate of the Ecole de Paris des Métiers de la table, du tourisme, et de l'hôtellerie (Paris School of Culinary, Tourism, and Hotel Management Professions), Dablé has been called the creator of "Afrofusion" - an ingenious mix of African and Western flavors. Prior to taking over the kitchen at the Dapper Museum, he worked at restaurants in London and Ibiza as well as at Apicius, one of Paris' finest dining establishments.

In a recent announcement distributed by the museum, Chef Dablé shared the following (translated from French):

Cooking, an expression of my creativity that I cherish as much as painting, allows me to share the palette of flavors that define my culinary journey. In this magnificent setting, I humbly offer a contemporary view on African cuisine... exploring forgotten or unknown traditions and (re) discovering masterpieces from Africa. Often limited to a gustatory art, cuisine is also an art of living and sharing.

A thirty-something Franco-Ivorian, Chef Dablé hails from the Paris region. His first Sassand'Art menu dégustation (tasting menu), served at the café on opening night, consisted of novel creations such as gravlax attiéké (cured salmon and manioc), risotto poulet fumé (risotto and smoked chicken), and panacotta bissap (panna cotta with hibiscus). The name "Sassand'Art is inspired by the Sassandra-Marahoué district of the Ivory Coast.

The current exhibition at the Musée Dapper, Chefs d'Oeuvre d'Afrique, and the Café Dapper provide the perfect opportunity for an Art and Food Pairing™. I'll bring you one soon!

Café Dapper Loïc Dablé
35 bis, rue Paul Valery
75116 Paris
FRANCE
Téléphone: 06 95 85 24 87
E-mail:

Open 11:00 AM to - 11:00 PM Friday through Sunday

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

Art and Food Pairing™: I Know Why the Caged Bird BLINGS and Osè African Cuisine

“But a caged bird stands on the grave of dreams
His shadow shouts on a nightmare scream
His wings are clipped and his feet are tied
So he opens his throat to sing.”

Maya Angelou
The Backslash Gallery in Paris' 3rd arrondissement has once again mounted a one-man show of works by artist Fahama Pecou. The current exposition, entitled I Know Why the Caged Bird BLINGS, represents Pecou's tribute to writer and civil rights activist, Maya Angelou.

Pecou has been heavily influenced by Angelou’s autobiography, I Know Why the Caged Bird Sings. He modified the title of the book for the purposes of this show.

From Backslash Gallery:

I Know Why The Caged Bird BLINGS looks at the excesses of young African American black men who use ostentatious displays of wealth to assert an image; some of them become trapped in this system of values and, like Maya Angelou’s caged bird, find themselves unable to break free.

Pecou sheds light on these young men’s desire to reflect more deeply on the splendor of the black soul and the regal heritage of African cultures. He reminds us that BLACK IS BEAUTIFUL. The gold- and jewelry-laden bodies signify a desire to be seen as something other than victim or threat, with a nod to recent brutal police attacks on members of the black community, in Ferguson in particular.

Brilliance
Fahamu Pecou
From the artist:

My work seeks to provide a crucial intervention in contemporary representations of Black masculinity. I began my career experimenting with the branding strategies employed in hip-hop music and entertainment. These experiments ultimately led me to question not only the stereotypes engendered by the commodification of hip-hop culture, but more, to consider how the influence of historic and social configurations of race, class and gender impact and inform these representations.

Caged Bird 1
Fahamu Pecou
2013 Acrylic on canvas

Icarus - I carry us - I care for us
Untitled
Fahamu Pecou

To read about Pecou's previous expositions at Backslash Gallery, click on the links below:

Hard 2 Death

NEGUS in Paris

I Know Why the Caged Bird BLINGS is open through July 25, 2015 (closed from June 23 to July 1).

After visiting the Pecou exposition, my husband Tom and I enjoyed a leisurely 10-minute walk from Backslash Gallery to a new African restaurant called Osè African Cuisine.

Osè African Cuisine
© Discover Paris!
This fast food restaurant is based on the concept of creating an African meal from four elements: base, sauce, "meat," and a condiment. The meal can be served in a microwave-safe box shaped like an ice cream carton (take out or eat on site) or on a wooden plate (eat on site).

You first select the "base," which consists of two choices - basmati rice or red "Gasy Mena" rice from Madagascar.

Then you select one of seven types of sauce:

mafé (peanut butter and vegetables), yassa (onion, lemon, green olives), ndizi (cream of banana), rasta (black beans, tomato, and Jamaican pepper), coco (coconut milk and spices), yola (yellow eggplant), gombo (okra and tomato)

that will dress your choice of beef, chicken, lamb, or shrimp.

Co-owner Morlaye Touré prepares a dish
© Discover Paris!
Finally, you select one or more of four condiments (or none, as you wish) - pepper sauce that is mild (ginger), medium (tamarin), hot (mango), or extra hot (Osè).

A beverage is included in the fixed price menu, which ranges from 10.60€ to 12.60€ for a medium or a large meal, respectively.

Osè is proud of its quality charter, which it displays in the front window. Gondo-Michel Diomandé, the restaurant’s chef, uses only natural ingredients to prepare the elements for Osè dishes, favors French-sourced foods and the shortest transit times from farm to kitchen, and uses no genetically modified foods. Chef Gondo also produces three organic beverages under the brand Thièfini that Osè clients can enjoy with their meal.

Quality Charter
© Discover Paris!
On the day that we dined there, owner Morlaye Touré was behind the counter. Because it was our first time at the restaurant, he allowed us to taste several sauces prior to making our selection. I decided upon the Ndizi sauce and thought that it would best accompany the chicken (diced breast meat). I took a bit of ginger pepper sauce and a bit of tamarin pepper sauce, not wanting to overwhelm the relatively delicate flavor of the Ndizi.

And because I am highly partial to the classic African soft drink called bissap, I chose a bottle of hibiscus drink as my beverage.

Poulet with Ndizi Sauce
© Discover Paris!
Tom was impressed by the Rasta sauce and chose beef as his meat. He decided to have tamarin sauce as his condiment and chose to drink Coca Cola with his meal.

Beef with Rasta Sauce
© Discover Paris!
We sat at a high table in the dining room, which is decorated in a minimalist style. A painting and a couple of chairs covered with a patchwork-like fabric were the only splashes of vivid color in this setting.

Osè dining room
© Discover Paris!
As is typical in African restaurants, the portions at Osè are copious. I had to choose between eating all of my main dish or forgoing dessert. I decided to take the remainder of my chicken and rice with Ndizi sauce home and eat dessert on site.

Tom and I both selected the caramelized mango cake for dessert. It was like a pineapple upside-down cake, with mango replacing the pineapple.

Caramelized Mango Cake
© Discover Paris!
We were both happy with all of our selections and enjoyed a wonderful conversation with owners Morlaye Touré and Gabriel Stein. We believe these young men have a successful venture on their hands and look forward to returning to Osè to sample other meal combinations.


Backslash Gallery
29, rue Notre-Dame de Nazareth
75003 Paris
Telephone: 09.81.39.60.01
Metro: République (Lines 3, 5, 8, 9, 11)
Internet: www.backslashgallery.com
Open Tuesday through Saturday 11 AM – 7 PM

Osè African Cuisine
34, rue du Faubourg Saint Martin
75010 Paris
Telephone: 09.73.56.40.84
Metro: Strasbourg St Denis (Lines 4, 8, 9)
Internet: http://www.osefood.fr/
Open Monday through Friday: 12 noon - 2:30 PM and 6:30 PM - 10:30 PM; Saturday 12 noon - 11 PM

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Afrique Unie - An Afro-Caribbean Cultural Exposition

Afrique Unie (United Africa) event is the first event bringing together the cultural and economic players in Africa, the Caribbean and the overseas departments and territories of France and in Europe for the sake of development, promotion and solidarity. It was created by Da Patch Ateliers, a French non-profit association founded by young Parisians of African origin. One of its overarching missions is to promote Africa and its cultural diversity to a European audience.

Collage from Afrique Unie press release
Since 2006, Da Patch Ateliers has worked to provide academic support to children from immigrant families while helping them discover the richness of culture through the creation of musical works or plays. In this context, the organization decided to create the first Afrique Unie event in 2009 – the first in Paris to focus on Afro-Caribbean crafts. From all over France, vendors came to exhibit their creations in a festive atmosphere charged with music. Internationally renowned artists such as Papa Wemba participated that year.

In 2012, speakers came from all over Europe and 150 exhibitors displayed their wares. More than 5,000 visitors attended the event, which was held in the salle Olympe de Gouge, in one afternoon.

The 2015 edition of Afrique Unie will be the third organized by Da Patch Ateliers. The group has set its sights higher for this year’s salon, offering the public the opportunity to meet no less than 270 exhibitors and to experience a wide variety of activities in connection with the Afro-Caribbean world. To remain true to its intent to create a warm, convivial atmosphere, it will host twenty groups representing folklore and traditional music of the continent and islands. Television producer and host for Trace and BeBlack, television personality Ayden BBlack will host the event.

Ayden BBlack
Image courtesy of Afrique Unie
There will be a dedicated space where children can discover African and Caribbean games and storytelling as well as dance and listen to traditional music.

Music groups from around the world, such as John Doe, Zouk, K-dy, and Fenomenes d’Afrik will perform throughout the weekend.

Chef Malonga, participant in the 2014 Top Chef competition, will provide cooking demonstrations.



And several African and Caribbean fashion designers will present their works, including:

Sonia DAMALA – Bénin (Winner of the International Festival of African Fashion [FIMA] in 2013)
Chouchou LAZARE – Gabon
Angélique DIEDHIOU – Senegal
Alvine DMANOU – Cameroon
Mariah BOCOUM – Mali
Fauvette Nacto – Guadeloupe/France

Part of the proceeds of the event will be donated l'ANIDA, an organization that supports African children who suffer from albinism.

Partnering organizations include Nollywood TV, Africa N°1 radio, the RATP Foundation, and Pullman Hotels and Resorts.

The event is being held at:

Paris Event Center
20, avenue de la Porte de la Villette
75019 Paris
Metro: Porte de la Villette (Line 7)
Tram: Porte de la Villette (Line T3B)

Hours:
Saturday, April 25: 10 AM – 8 PM
Sunday, April 26: 10 AM – 8 PM

Entry is FREE!

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Art and Food Pairing™: La Galerie Africaine and Chez Fifi - Miss-Yolo

Aude Minart and La Galerie Africaine have kicked off 2015 with an intimate and powerful exhibition of African art called A Nous L'Afrique. It is being shown at Mu Gallery in Paris' 9th arrondissement. Tom and I attended a reception for the show a few days ago.

A Nous l'Afrique flier (left) and Aude Minart (right)
© Discover Paris!

Mu Gallery
© Discover Paris!
This corner of the 9th was known as Black Montmartre in the early to mid-20th century, and the gallery is only a block away from the former location of Florence Embry Jones' famous nightspot, Chez Florence.

The exhibition features works by one of Aude's preferred painters, Senegal's Camara Gueye.

l'Oiseau rouge
Camara Gueye
2004 media
© Discover Paris!

La jeune fille en rouge
Camara Gueye
2008 media
© Discover Paris!
Exquisite traditional and contemporary sculptures, artisanal fabrics and masks, and fine crafts are also part of the show.

A Nous l'Afrique - paintings and sculptures
© Discover Paris!

A Nous l'Afrique - masks and fabric
© Discover Paris!

A Nous l'Afrique - crafts and fabrics
© Discover Paris!
A Nous l'Afrique closes on January 31, 2015. If you're in Paris, it's worth taking the time to see it!

Mu Gallery
53, rue Blanche
75009 Paris
Metro: Place de Clichy (Lines 2 and 13), Blanche (Line 2)
Hours: Monday through Saturday from 12 noon to 8 PM

About a 10-minute walk from Mu Gallery is an African restaurant called Chez Fifi-Miss-Yolo. It used to operate under the name Au Braisé d'Or, but is now under new management.

After a lovely time at the gallery, Tom and I walked over to the restaurant for dinner. The sign with the new name has yet to be installed on the façade.

The dining room at Chez Fifi is large and modestly decorated. A red carpet extends from the doorway to guide you to tables located next to the front window, along the right wall, and at the rear of the restaurant. Maize-colored walls are accentuated with brown molding and African-themed appliqués. Large tables covered with brightly pattered cloths are flanked by brown vinyl benches. Curtains are made from the same cloth that covers the tables.

Dining room at Chez Fifi-Miss-Yolo
© Discover Paris!
There was a problem in the kitchen that evening and several dishes listed on the menu were not available. But we were both happy with the dish we selected, which was a Congolese preparation called Ngolo-liboké. Catfish is one of the very few fishes that I eat and I'm pleased to report that this home-style rendition of it was excellent!

Our server was careful to explain that we could have the fish cooked one of two ways - braised or cooked in banana leaves (liboké). We chose the braised version and were served an entire fish with the head still attached. The flesh was tender, meaty, slightly smoky, and incredibly flavorful. A simple lettuce and tomato salad dressed in thick vinaigrette was served on the plate as well. There was no other garnish.

As accompaniments, Tom ordered kwanga (manioc) and I ordered aloko (fried plantains). A generous portion of each was served in a separate dish alongside. The plantains were firm and slightly sweet, while the manioc was spongy and slightly sour.

Braised catfish, kwanga (left), and aloko (right)
© Discover Paris!
The waitress placed the obligatory condiments - lemon juice (reconstituted), Maggi seasoning sauce, and home-made pepper sauce - on the table, but the fish was so well seasoned that we didn't need to use any of them.

Condiments
© Discover Paris!
I had hoped to order bissap (hibiscus juice) or ginger juice as a beverage, but neither was listed on the menu. So I ordered a lightly carbonated, fruit-flavored Cameroonian soft drink called D'jino instead. Tom ordered a Guinness Extra Fort stout, a brew that is dark and strong (7.5% alcohol).

D'jino and Guinness
© Discover Paris!
Even without ordering a first course, the fish, salad, and sides were too much to finish!

Our servers were quite accommodating and took all the time we needed to explain what was offered on the menu. Just as we were noting that our meal was taking longer than anticipated to arrive at the table, one of the servers came out and apologized for the inconvenience. She said that it would not be too much longer before we'd be served, and our food was delivered to us less than ten minutes later.

Chez Fifi-Miss-Yolo is in a lively area of Paris, just north of Place de Clichy. It is by no means upscale, but it is clean and the food will remind you of what you'd get from your mother's or grandmother's kitchen. We plan to try this restaurant again to see how things unfold here.

Chez Fifi-Miss-Yolo
3, rue Capron
75018 Paris
Metro: Place de Clichy (Lines 2 and 13)
Hours: Every day from 12 noon to 2 AM

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Cap 99 - Afro-Caribbean food in the Quartier Mouffetard

Sunday was a picture perfect day in Paris and Tom and I decided to cap off a photography session on Pont Alexandre III and the Tuileries Garden with dinner at a neighborhood restaurant that we've walked by many times - Cap 99 on rue du Pot de Fer in the 5th arrondissement. The restaurant is less than half a block from rue Mouffetard, our favorite market street.

Cap 99 Façade
© Discover Paris!
Eric is the proprietor of Cap 99. He is from Benin and is quite the convivial host. When he saw that we wanted to take photos of the dining room, he pulled out a drum and posed for us!

Cap 99 dining room
© Discover Paris!

Eric poses for us
© Discover Paris!
The cuisine at Cap 99 is primarily West African. Traditional dishes such as Ndole, Yassa, and Mafé are accompanied by missolé (plantains) and Cameroonian beers are listed on the beverage menu. The French Caribbean gets a nod with Accras and Colombo...

Eric makes fabulous jus de gingembre (ginger juice) that he "spiked" with morsels of dried ginger for me. (I thought the juice was potent until I tasted these little nuggets!) He sold his last Cameroonian Guinness before we arrived so he offered Tom a Mützig (another beer brewed in Cameroon - made with barley, corn, and hops) that was three times the volume of the Guinness - for the same price. So we were set for beverages for this amazing meal.

We were so hungry after our photo shoot that we forgot our cardinal rule - never order three courses at an African restaurant because the portions are so large that you either overeat or can't finish your meal. I ordered Samoussa de chasseur followed by Yassa poulet for the main course and Blanc manger coco for dessert. Tom ordered Accras de morue followed by braised tilapia for the main course and Mont Mandara (named after a Cameroonian mountain range) for dessert. And sure enough, we left feeling stuffed because we tried to eat everything that Eric set before us!

The samoussas, three triangles of brick pastry stuffed with minced beef, green peas, diced potatoes, and minced carrot, were large enough to have served as my main dish. Piping hot, they were accompanied by a tomato-based sauce flavored with dried shrimp and ginger. They were absolutely scrumptious!

Samoussa de chasseur
© Discover Paris!
The yassa was prepared with loads of onion and pitted green olives. A large mound of white rice and five generous slices of caramelized plantain were served alongside a large chicken leg and back. I couldn't even fathom eating the rice!

Tom loved his accras and he eagerly sampled one of my samoussas as well. When his tilapia arrived, he was overwhelmed! An entire fish - plus rice and missolé - covered his plate, which was larger than mine. He devoured it with gusto.

Tilapia
© Discover Paris!
Eric saw that he finished his plantains and offered another serving of them, which Tom accepted. He made a valiant attempt to finish his rice with the spicy onion condiment served with the tilapia, but he could only manage to eat half of it. He wanted to save room for dessert, as did I.

My Blanc manger coco was a coconut pudding made with condensed milk, coconut milk, coconut flakes, and a coconut wafer on top. Tom's dessert was a portion of warm chocolate cake with a molten chocolate center sitting in crème anglaise and topped with coconut ice cream.

Mont Mandara
© Discover Paris!
After finishing this course, we both pushed away from the table feeling that we needed an after-dinner nap!

Cap 99
5, rue du Pot de Fer
75005 Paris
Tel: 09.51.65.94.56
Metro: Place Monge (Line 7)

Return to Ohinéné

I first wrote about Ohinéné last June, after Tom and I dined there upon the recommendation of a friend who lives nearby. We recently returned to celebrate the success of Tom's e-book, Dining Out in Paris, because Ohinéné is one of the twelve restaurants featured in it!

Ohinéné restaurant
© Discover Paris!
Edith (co-owner and chef) and Jean-Benoit (co-owner and part-time server) were as cheerful and welcoming as ever.

Edith Gnapié and Jean-Benoit Chauveau, co-owners
© Discover Paris!
We were surprised to see an image of their son Owen on a poster in the window on rue Orfila as we approached the front door:

Y'a bon, BISSAP
© Discover Paris!
It tells passersby that Ohinéné serves wonderful bissap (a soft drink made from hibiscus flowers). I can testify to this because Tom and I both ordered it the last time we dined here and we loved it.

Bissap
© Discover Paris!
This time, we elected to try Edith's fresh ginger juice and were equally impressed. It is the best I've tasted in Paris!

Ohinéné still serves French cuisine at lunchtime, as the menu behind the counter shows. They've even begun serving burgers, which have become ubiquitous in Paris restaurants.

Lunch menu
© Discover Paris!
But at night, cuisine from Côte d'Ivoire reigns! Edith almost always prepares a dish that is braised and smothered with a vibrant array of chopped veggies.

Special of the day
© Discover Paris!
And Jean-Benoit is proud of the top quality mangoes that he selects for dessert.

Fresh mango
© Discover Paris!
Read about Edith and Jean-Benoit's story in Dining Out in Paris.

Ohinéné
14, rue de la Chine
75020 Paris
Telephone: 01 71 20 67 62
Metro: Pelleport (Line 3bis)or Gambetta (Line 3)

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Rio Dos Camarãos Restaurant: A Review

Rio Dos Camarãos is an African restaurant located in the eastern suburb of Montreuil, about a five-minute walk from the metro station Robespierre. Tom and I first learned about it when we were surfing the Internet for restaurants serving Afro-centric cuisine. We found an intriguing photo of a banana-chocolate tart presented on a place mat made of bottle caps and followed the information trail to this spacious eatery.

Rio Dos Camarãos - façade
© Discover Paris!
When we saw the African statuettes in the window, we knew that we had arrived.

African statuettes
© Discover Paris!
The interior is simply decorated but the elements that chef and owner Alessandro Bella Ola and his wife have chosen to embellish the large dining room are unmistakably African. Handsome cloths cover the tables and large and small dolls dressed in colorful cloth are placed throughout the restaurant. Color photographs of Africans hang on the walls.

Table setting
© Discover Paris!

Dolls and wine rack
© Discover Paris!
Our waiter, whom we later learned was Chef Bella Ola, invited us to take a table. There, we studied the menu that listed a wide range of traditional African dishes, including Mafé, Ndolé, and Yassa.

We decided to order apéritifs while pondering what to order. Tom chose a blond beer from Cameroon called Castel. Served in a 65cl bottle, it was refreshing with a slight bitter taste. I ordered a Punch au bissap - a cocktail of rum and hibiscus juice. While suitably bracing due to the rum, I found that the flavor of hibiscus was not as strong as I expected (or would have liked). I felt the same about the non-alcoholic ginger juice that I ordered to accompany my meal.

Chef Bella Ola brought over a dish of spicy peanuts and corn nuts to accompany our beverages. Tom also ordered a small side dish of green banana chips, which really did taste like green (slightly unripe) banana. These were fun to crunch on.

After Chef Bella Ola served the beverages, he disappeared into the kitchen. A woman, whom we later learned was his wife, took over the table service.

We are always wary of ordering too much food at African restaurants, so when I spied an intriguing starter called Nyam ngond on the menu, I asked Chef whether it was copious. He assured us that we would receive a "truly appetizer-sized" portion, so we decided to order it. Chef graciously invited us to split it between us so that we'd be sure to have enough room for the main dish.

Nyam ngond
© Discover Paris!
Nyam ngond is a cake-like preparation of pumpkin seeds. It was presented as a flat disk resting on a mound of julienned carrot, zucchini, and cabbage. Instead of containing crunchy morsels of seeds, it was spongy and it had a flavor slightly reminiscent of fish broth. We later learned that it is a dish that is generally served as a main course on the day after family celebrations. We found the salad to be quite refreshing.

We both had a difficult time deciding which main course to choose from the wide variety on the menu. Tom finally settled on Mafé poulet fumé, otherwise known as smoked chicken in peanut sauce. This turned out to be an excellent choice. Madame Bella Ola brought a dish containing a mound of fluffy, white rice and a steaming cast-iron pot containing chicken with carrot and cabbage smothered in peanut sauce. The chicken was tender, the vegetables flavorful, and the rich sauce tempting. Simply delicious!

Mafé Poulet Fumé
© Discover Paris!
I decided to try the national dish of Cameroon, called Poulet D. G. I received a sizzling-hot iron plate containing a copious portion of stewed chicken legs, plantains, leeks, and red and green bell peppers. The chicken was tender and juicy and the plantains were just sweet enough to add balance to the spices in the dish. The vegetables added color and texture to this heavenly preparation.

Poulet D. G.
© Discover Paris!
The dessert menu offered some unusual choices. Tom opted for Tatin banane, a large slice of caramelized, upside-down banana pie served with two dollops of whipped cream. It was fashioned after the traditional Tarte des Demoiselles Tatin that is made with apples. The bananas were dense and chewy and tasted somewhat like the sun-dried bananas that one sometimes finds at specialty stores. Tom loved this, declaring that he could eat a slice every day!

Tatin banane
© Discover Paris!
I sprang for Crème brulée au citron vert. It looked like a traditional crème brulée with its burnt-sugar crust, but it had the bright pick-me-up flavor of lime rather than the mellow-me-down flavor of vanilla. I quite enjoyed it.

Chef Bella Ola, who hails from Cameroon, honored our request to come out from the kitchen at the end of our meal to pose for a photograph.

Chef Alexandre Bella Ola
© Discover Paris!
He proudly shared that Rio Dos Camarãos restaurant will celebrate twenty years of existence in November 2014. He is planning an entire remake of the menu at that time. We're looking forward to returning in the fall so that we can sample his new culinary creations!

Rio Dos Camarãos
55, rue Marceau
93100 Montreuil
Tel.: 01.42.87.34.84
Métro station: Robespierre (Line 9)

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