Thursday, October 12, 2017

We've Moved!



After seven years of publication on Blogger, the Entrée to Black Paris blog has moved to the Discover Paris! Web site.

Look for us at https://entreetoblackparis.com/blog-current.html!

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Thursday, October 5, 2017

Au Nègre Joyeux to Be Moved to the Museum of Paris History

The Internet is abuzz with the news that the sign "Au Nègre Joyeux" and the accompanying image are to be moved to the Musée Carnavalet (Museum of Paris History).

Au Nègre Joyeux
© Discover Paris!

Major French news outlets such as Le Parisien, France 24, and Le Figaro published stories announcing the heavily debated decision by the Conseil de Paris (Paris' Municipal Council and General Council for the Department of Paris).

Au Nègre Joyeux was a chocolate factory that operated at place de la Contrascarpe in Paris' 5th arrondissement during the 18th century. It opened in 1748.

Several years ago, the painting's glass frame was broken by vandals. It remained in place for many months before being removed for restoration.

Au Nègre Joyeux removed for restoration
© Discover Paris!

Shortly after being re-installed, it was defaced again. The glass of the frame was shattered and spattered with paintballs.

Au Nègre Joyeux defaced by paintballs
2015 © Discover Paris!

A quick look at the image leaves the impression that it depicts a black man serving a white woman, and articles describing the painting indicate the same. However, upon closer inspection, one can see that the woman is serving the man - she appears to be wearing an apron and holds a tray that supports a large pot presumably filled with hot chocolate. Both are smiling.

Many who want the sign and image to stay believe that a plaque should be installed to explain the history behind it.

On the same day that the Conseil de Paris voted to remove Au Nègre Joyeux, it also voted for a collaboration between the city of Paris, the French government, several associations, and the National Committee for the Memory and History of Slavery to create a museum about slavery, the slave trade, and its abolition:

...le projet de création d’un musée de l’esclavage, de la traite et de ses abolitions soit travaillé entre l’État, la ville de Paris, les associations concernées et le Comité national pour la mémoire et l’histoire de l’esclavage.

The final decision about the establishment of the museum, which would be located in Paris, rests with the French government.


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Thursday, September 28, 2017

Celebrating Indo-Caribbean Cuisine at the 2017 Fête de la Gastronomie

On Friday September 22 and Saturday September 23, the Académie de l'Art Culinaire du Monde Créole (Academy of Culinary Art for the Creole World), hosted an event in the 11th arrondissement as part of this year's Fête de la Gastronomie (Gastronomy Festival).


Tom and I attended on Saturday so we could take advantage of the many cooking demonstrations scheduled during the afternoon.

Chefs Tristan Tharsis and Yannis Artigny of the Cercle Gastronomique des Jeunes Chefs Créole demonstrated how to make Pain au beurre, Pomme cannelle (both are similar to French brioche), and Antillean hot chocolate.

Chefs Tristan Tharsis and Yannis Artigny
© Discover Paris!

Chef Tristan Tharsis prepares the dough for pain au beurre and pomme cannelle
© Discover Paris!

Pomme cannelle ready for baking
© Discover Paris!

Baked pomme cannelle
© Discover Paris!

I was surprised to learn that the classic preparation for Antillean hot chocolate begins with infusing water with cinnamon sticks and grated nutmeg and includes lime zest. I was even more surprised to hear Chef Artigny state that he adds peanut butter when he prepares his personal recipe!

Chef Yannis Artigny stirs Antillean chocolate
© Discover Paris!

Ladling Antillean chocolate
© Discover Paris!

Pain au beurre and hot chocolate are traditionally served together.

Pain au beurre and hot chocolate
© Discover Paris!

The next two chefs prepared dishes that directly evoked the theme of the event - Colombo Massalé Curry.

Chef à domicile Vanessa Kichenin, a young woman of Indian descent who was born in Guadeloupe, is the owner of Saveurs Madras. She explained why so many dishes in the French Antilles are influenced by Indian cuisine - it is because people from Chennai (formerly known as Madras), Pondicherry (former French colony in India), and Calcutta migrated there after the abolition of slavery to work in the cane fields as indentured servants. Their culinary customs and madras fabric are indelibly imprinted on the French Antilles.

In fact, one of the most commonly served dishes in the Caribbean - colombo - has its origins in India!

Chef Vanessa Kichenin
© Discover Paris!

Chef Kichenin talked at length about the spices traditionally used in Indian and French Caribbean cuisine. She explained that curry is a mix of spices, while cumin and curcuma (turmeric) are individual spices.

Massalé spice box
© Discover Paris!

She told us that pâte à massalé (massala sauce), which she used for one of two vegetarian dishes she demonstrated that afternoon, is also composed of many spices.

Pâte à Massalé
© Discover Paris!

Chef Kichenin adds pâte à massalé to a vegetarian dish
© Discover Paris!

Flat beans, potatoes, and pâte à massalé
© Discover Paris!

Following Chef Kichenin, Chef à domicile Dev Delavictoire of Paris Curry prepared a kozhambu à poisson (fish curry).

Chef Dev Delavictoire
© Discover Paris!

While blending his spices before our eyes and preparing the base for the sauce, he talked about his Pondicherry origins and said he feels blessed to have grown up with two extraordinary culinary cultures that have inspired his work as a chef.

Spices for Kozhambu de poisson
© Discover Paris!

Onions, chopped cari leaves, spices,
and diced tomatoes for Kozhambu de poisson
© Discover Paris!

Chef Delavictoire used mackerel for this dish. He said white fish such as cod and croaker would also work well, and he counseled avoiding the use of salmon.

Chef Delavictoire prepares the fish
© Discover Paris!

Having visited south India numerous times, including Chennai and Pondicherry, I felt privileged to have the opportunity to watch Chef Kichenin and Chef Dev Delavictoire prepare dishes that took me straight back to the tables where I enjoyed such fine cuisine!

I am familiar enough with the cuisine of this part of the country to know that it can be vastly different from one state to another and even from one city to another! Chef Delavictoire confirmed this during his demonstration.

Chef Delavictoire plating the colombo de poisson
© Discover Paris!

Chef Tharsis returned to the demonstration table to show the audience how to make coconut macaroons.

Chef Tristan Thanis prepares coconut macaroons
© Discover Paris!

Other vendors present included a couple who made and sold coconut sorbet on the premises,

Vendor of homemade coconut sorbet
© Discover Paris!

Ice cream churn
© Discover Paris!

a small group of people selling Antillean pastries (savory and sweet),

Pastry stand
© Discover Paris!

a man selling canned peppers and other condiments,

Chile pepper stand
© Discover Paris!

and a woman selling jewelry and crafts.

Jewelry and crafts stand
© Discover Paris!

The man at the Antillean pastry stand had a second booth where he prepared shaved ice refreshments (similar to the Slurpees and Icees that you can find in the U.S.).

Shaving ice
© Discover Paris!

Flavorings for shaved ice drinks
© Discover Paris!

Chef Stephan Sorbon, who served as chef for the private cooking atelier that Discover Paris! organized for J Rêve International's Global Arts and Culture Exchange program in March 2017, demonstrated how to make accras at 6 PM. We were unable to stay for his session.

Celebrity chef Babette de Roziers made an appearance during the middle of the afternoon, as did former Deputy Minister of Overseas Departments and current National Assembly Deputy, George Pau-Langevin.

Deputy George Pau-Langevin
© Discover Paris!

As is customary at events organized by the Académie, good food and a good time were had by all!

Académie President George Garnier and Deputy George Pau-Langevin
© Discover Paris!

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Thursday, September 21, 2017

What's New at Josephine's House

Last weekend, Tom and I visited Le Beau Chêne during the Journées du Patrimoine - the annual weekend when the public can visit government buildings and other sites that are not generally accessible. Josephine Baker called this beautiful villa home from 1929-1947.

The property was first opened for the Journées du Patrimoine in September 2013 and I enjoyed a private visit in April 2014. Things have changed since then!

Several trees have been cleared so that the villa is more easily visible from the street.

Le Beau Chêne viewed from avenue Georges Clémenceau
© Discover Paris!

Many of the windows have been replaced. The basement now houses a meeting room, as does the rebuilt gazebo.

Gazebo in 2014
© Discover Paris!

Rebuilt gazebo
© Discover Paris!

Though still in a state of severe disrepair, the dovecote is being used to grow tomatoes.

Tomatoes in the dovecote
© Discover Paris!

Tomatoes in the dovecote (close-up)
© Discover Paris!

Most importantly, and to the dismay of many who had hoped the property would remain intact, the lot has been divided to accommodate two additional residences. They will be built in the area where Josephine once had two greenhouses and a large chicken coup.

Photo display: Josephine in front of her chicken coop
© Discover Paris!

Photo display: Josephine and a duckling in front of
her large greenhouse
© Discover Paris!

Large greenhouse in 2014
© Discover Paris!

One of the homes is largely finished.

New house at Le Beau Chêne
© Discover Paris!

The lot was split to finance the refurbishing of the main house. Many things are still in need of repair, including the roof and the awning above the front porch.

Front porch awning
© Discover Paris!

To date, Le Beau Chêne is not classified as a National Heritage Site. The property remains inaccessible to the general public except during the Journées du Patrimoine.

Click here to learn about the “Josephine Baker Tour in Le Vésinet” that we organize for private groups.

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Thursday, September 14, 2017

Elliott Barnes at AD Intérieurs 2017

Elliott Barnes returns to AD Intérieurs this year with an ambitious installation that marries 17th-century artistry with 21st-century savoir faire.

Called "Le Salon d'un Collectionneur de Monnaie" in honor of the famous French sculptor and engraver, Jean Varin, and the coins and medals that he produced, Barnes' installation is found just after a whimsical, yet elegant installation of chandeliers by Mathieu Lustrerie at Le Monnaie de Paris.

AD Interiéurs 2017 at La Monnaie de Paris
© Discover Paris!

Varin was named contrôleur et graveur général des monnaies de France (controller and engraver of French currencies) in 1647. He popularized the use of the coin press, replacing the manual production of coins by hammering. Barnes was inspired by Varin's innovations to pay homage to Varin and to create several avant-garde works of his own.

In the passageway between the chandelier installation and "Le Salon" sits a console that evokes the coin press that Varin championed.

Console
© Discover Paris!

Entering the salon, my first impressions related to geometry—an elliptical room, a round floor covering, round disks suspended between sleek columns, and various curves and waves. Then I noted colors—the white, silver, gray, and smoke of the canape, chairs, walls, sconce, and columns; the earth tones of the rug, table base, trunk-like posts, and light fixture frame...

Le Salon d'un Collectionneur de Monnaie
© Discover Paris!

© Discover Paris!

© Discover Paris!

Finally, upon approaching the various elements of the installation, I noted textures and temperatures—smooth, cold marble;

© Discover Paris!

warmer and ever-so-slightly corrugated rounds of pressed leather;

© Discover Paris!

even warmer fabrics of various weaves;

© Discover Paris!

the parched earth appearance of a green ceramic vase...

© Discover Paris!

Vegetal leather (leather tanned with vegetal components instead of heavy metals) is the "star" of Barnes' installation. It is his reference to the leather apron Varin wore when he worked. The uninitiated will find it difficult to spot most of the pieces made of this material and will be astonished upon discovering the items that are made from it!

The bench pictured below is a great example. It is composed almost entirely of pleated leather. The only element not made of leather is the tension rods that keep the folds intact.

© Discover Paris!

© Discover Paris!

In case you're wondering, YES, you can sit on it!

Have a look at these shelves:

© Discover Paris!

And the base of this table:

© Discover Paris!

And the frame of this "tattood" mirror:

© Discover Paris!

ALL are made of vegetal leather!

The wall panels, which were custom designed for the room using a pattern that dates from 1740, are made from Cordoba embossed metallic leather:

© Discover Paris!

Even the artwork is made of leather - this framed oeuvre by award-winning artist Samuel Levi Jones is composed of deconstructed encyclopedia covers:

Scarlet
2004 Samuel Levi Jones
© Discover Paris!

And this watercolor by Daniela Busarello, commissioned for Elliott Barnes Interiors in 2017, is painted on leather:

Cosmographie E1
2017 Daniela Busarello
© Discover Paris!

AD Intérieurs 2017 will be open until September 20. Barnes will be on site from 2 PM to 4 PM on September 16, 17, and 19 to present his exquisite work. If you're in Paris, be sure to get over to La Monnaie de Paris to see it!

Monnaie de Paris
11, quai de Conti
75006 Paris
www.monnaiedeparis.fr
Hours: 11 AM - 7 PM
Entry fee: 10€

To learn more about Elliott Barnes and his designs, visit http://ebinteriors.com/.

Elliott Barnes
© Discover Paris!

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