Showing posts with label food truck. Show all posts
Showing posts with label food truck. Show all posts

Thursday, May 4, 2017

New Soul Food - The Food Truck

Back in January, I wrote a blog post about the state of "Soul Food in Paris.”

I indicated that several establishments are now labeling their cuisine as soul food and briefly described three of them: New Soul Food, Gumbo YaYa, and Mama Jackson Soul Food Kitchen.


New Soul Food came across my radar again in early April, when they participated in a special day of activities during the spring-summer Africa Now festival being hosted by Galeries Lafayette. My husband Tom brought home a couple of dinners and we quite enjoyed them.

New Soul Food take-out
© Discover Paris!

Subsaharan chicken, basmati rice and plantains, and peanut sauce
© Discover Paris!

Pineapple-coconut baba
© Discover Paris!

So we decided to visit the truck at its primary location to find out what its regular customers experience when they want a taste of “new soul food.”

The truck is generally parked on a large plaza at 128, avenue de France in the 13th arrondissement. When we visited it on a cloudy Saturday afternoon, it was part of a circle of seven food trucks that provide meals and refreshment for moviegoers at the Cinéma MK2 Bibliothèque and others in the neighborhood.

(The other trucks are purveyors of Greek, American, Thai, Peruvian, and French food. One of the French trucks specializes in grilled cheese sandwiches made from many types of French cheese. The pioneering American food truck, Le Camion Qui Fume, is part of the circle.)

New Soul Food food truck viewed from the plaza
© Discover Paris!

New Soul Food’s cuisine is best described as Afro-fusion. The menu revolves around chicken and fish, both of which are “braisé” – what Americans call charbroiled or grilled. There are three “flavor themes” – Afro-Subsaharienne, Afro-Caribéenne, and Afropéan – that evoke Africa, the Caribbean, and Europe. Diners can mix and match selections from these themes. The entire menu is gluten-free.

New Soul Food menu board
© Discover Paris!

Note that fish is not cooked in advance, so be prepared to wait a bit if you select this menu item.

We dined on chicken. Tom selected the same chicken dish and sauce he brought home for the two of us when he went to the Africa Now festival - the Afro-Subsaharienne version that consists of drumstick, thigh, and back prepared in a marinade of Cameroonian Penja pepper, and Cacahuète aux Epices du Cameroun (peanuts and Cameroonian spices) sauce. He chose the Afropéan Attiéké (manioc semolina made with olive oil, semi-dried tomatoes, and African herbs and condiments) as his accompaniment.

All my selections were from the Afro-Caribéenne theme: chicken prepared in an Antillean colombo-turmeric-ginger marinade, Patates Douces (white and orange sweet potatoes sautéed with herbs), and Coco et Vanille (coconut and vanilla) sauce.

As a beverage, we each selected a house-made soft drink. Tom chose Framboise hibiscus parfumé à l’eau de rose (raspberry-hibiscus drink perfumed with rose water) and I chose Gingembre passion (ginger and passion-fruit drink).

We carried our orders over to a tall table in front of the food truck and tucked into them as music from Africa and its diaspora played over the truck’s sound system.

New Soul Food chicken dinners and soft drinks
© Discover Paris!

Meals are served in cardboard boat-like containers and the utensils supplied are wooden forks and knives.

Tom was thrilled with the food he ordered.

Subsaharan chicken, attiéké, and peanut sauce
© Discover Paris!

I loved my chicken and sweet potatoes but felt that the coco-vanilla sauce would have been more appropriate for a dessert course and asked for a serving of the spicy peanut sauce to finish my meal.

Afro-Caribbean chicken, sweet potatoes, and coconut-vanilla sauce
© Discover Paris!

I quite liked the ginger-passion fruit drink but Tom found his raspberry-hibiscus drink a bit too sweet.

We were looking forward to trying some of the signature desserts that the truck offers, but alas, none were available that day.

New Soul Food is the brainchild of Rudy Laine, a culinary professional trained in cooking and pastry making. He and his brother Joël, who is also a chef patissier, are proudly introducing a new way for the French public to experience African and Caribbean cuisine.

Rudy Laine
© Discover Paris!

With their mother being a pastry chef from Cameroon and their father being a cook from Guadeloupe, they grew up with a mix of the best of African and Antillean cuisine. New Soul Food is their way of honoring their culinary heritage and sharing it with the world. They think of it as “a culinary melting pot in osmosis with our cosmopolitan society…”

New Soul Food - Afrodisiaque
© Discover Paris!

We look forward to returning to New Soul Food to try the Afropéan chicken, which is marinated with herbes de Provence prior to grilling, and the Afropéan Yassa sauce, which made with mustard, onions, and lime. We also look forward to trying more of their desserts.

Because New Soul Food is an itinerant kitchen, its location changes frequently. To access the schedule, visit http://newsoulfood.fr/actualités.

New Soul Food
128, avenue de France
75013 Paris
Tel.: 06.26.83.02.06
Métro station: Bibliothèque François Mitterrand (Line 14)
Credit card: Visa, Mastercard
Web site: http://newsoulfood.fr
Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/NewSoulFoodFoodTruck/

New Soul Food food truck viewed from avenue de France
© Discover Paris!

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Thursday, January 12, 2017

Soul Food in Paris

There was a time in the not-so-distant past when the mention of soul food in Paris conjured up images of Leroy Haynes in the kitchen at his restaurant on rue Clauzel or of happy diners crowded around tables at Bojangles (Sharon Leslie Morgan - owner) or Percy's Place (Percy Taylor - owner).

Leroy Haynes in the kitchen at
Haynes' Restaurant
Screenshot from Ina.fr video

Bojangles façade
© Discover Paris!

Percy Taylor in front of Percy's Place
© Discover Paris!

All of these establishments closed in the 2000s.

Today, the "soul food" moniker is making a comeback at the following Paris eateries:
  • New Soul Food
  • Gumbo Yaya Soul Food Waffle House
  • Mama Jackson Soul Food Kitchen
A few additional establishments include a single "soul food" item on their menu.

But is what these businesses serve really soul food, as Americans think of it?

New Soul Food is a food truck that serves Afro-European and Afro-Caribbean fusion cuisine. It can frequently be found at the MK2 Bibliothèque in the 13th arrondissement, near the National Library. The only thing on their menu that looks remotely like food from the American South is sweet potatoes, and they are described as being sauteed with Afro-Caribbean herbs.

New Soul Food food truck
Image from New Soul Food Web site

Sojourner Ahébée, the Wells International Foundation's 2016 summer intern, visited Gumbo Yaya last August and tried their chicken and waffles. Comparing the fried chicken to what her maternal grandmother Sallie McBride from North Carolina makes, she declared Gumbo Yaya's version to be authentic and good (though not as good as her grandma's)!

Gumbo Yaya façade
© Sojourner Ahébée

As for Mama Jackson Soul Food Kitchen, it calls itself a soul food bistrot, where its clientele can discover the classics of African-American cuisine. Their menu includes fried chicken, macaroni and cheese, crispy fried fish, rice and beans, and cornbread and they advertise that you can enjoy hip hop, jazz, and soul music there. From what I've seen on Facebook (they do not yet have a Web site), they are doing quite well. They apparently don't take reservations and more than one person has complained of not being able to get a table.

Mama Jackson Soul Food Kitchen
Mama Jackson press image

I've not had the opportunity to visit any of these places, but I'm definitely going to try them over the next several weeks to months. When I do, I'll be sure to post my reviews here!

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