Nappy or Not Nappy? A Round Table Discussion at the Musée Dapper

On December 5, the Musée Dapper hosted an event called "Libérer les cheveux (Liberate Hair): Nappy or not Nappy?"

Billed as an encounter between Professor Maboula Soumahoro of François-Rabelais University in Tours and Rokhaya Diallo, journalist, activist, and author of the recently released book Afro, it was actually a round table discussion during which Professor Soumahoro interviewed five persons about their hair and what wearing it natural has meant for them.

Cover of Afro by Rokhaya Diallo
Image from Amazon.fr
Aurélie Leveau, general administrator of the museum and creator of the video installation Afriques Plurielles that is being shown as part of the Chefs-d'oeuvre d'Afrique exhibition, introduced Soumahoro to a full house. She reminded attendees that one of the three segments of the installation, called "Libérer les cheveux," examines ancient and contemporary rituals around hair.

Aurélie Leveau
© Discover Paris!

Nappy or Not Nappy? - Audience
© Discover Paris!
Professor Soumahoro, who has been a visiting lecturer in Africana Studies at Barnard College and at the Institute for Research in African American Studies (IRAAS) at Columbia University in New York, opened the afternoon by showing images of several celebrities who have worn or currently wear their hair naturally.

Image of Janelle Monae
© Discover Paris!
She followed this with a short clip from the video You Can Touch My Hair that was co-produced by one of the panel members, Antonia Opiah,

Scene from You Can Touch My Hair
© Discover Paris!
and then gave a presentation on the historic, cultural, and political ramifications of the transatlantic slave trade and the systematic denigration of everything about black people, including their hair. She emphasized that the "Nappy" movement is not new, but rather a renewal of a struggle to find beauty and dignity in natural hair.

Maboula Soumahoro
© Discover Paris!
Soumahoro began the interview session with Rokhaya Diallo, who talked of how she considers her short afro a militant hairstyle because no other French television journalist "talks of serious things and has hair like hers." She mentioned that when people living in France decide to "go natural," family and friends living in their ancestral countries of origin often don't understand or appreciate it.

Rokhaya Diallo
© Discover Paris!
Diallo also talked about why she chose to include North Africans (Maghrébins) in the book, stating that these populations suffer the same stereotypes and have the same difficulties in maintaining natural hair as do black Africans. This topic was a natural introduction to the second interview of the afternoon.

Fatima Aït Bounoua, professor of modern letters, teaches at a high school in Seine Saint-Denis. She told how her mother tried to "tame" her curly locks when Fatima was a child so that she would not look like Aïsha Kandisha, the witch of Moroccan legend. She spoke poignantly about how much of the self-image that young North African girls have of themselves is centered on the texture of their hair and remarked that she's had students tell her she would be pretty if she straightened her hair.

Fatima Aït Bounoua
© Discover Paris!
Chrystèle Saint-Louis-Augustin spoke from the perspective of being a fashion model and shared that her natural look is what inspired Benetton to select her for its United Colors of Benetton campaign in the mid 90s. She said she's always worn her hair natural, even when it was clearly not in her professional interest to do so. She has become accustomed to hair stylists at photo shoots being inexperienced with how to work with her hair and needing her guidance in doing so.

Chrystèle Saint-Louis-Augustin
© Discover Paris!
Dancer and choreographer Fabrice Taraud was the only man on the panel. He commented that his hair seems to evoke chaos in the minds of those who meet him and remarked how, because of his small stature and his long hair, people who don't know him often assume he is a woman. He recounted that people reach out and touch his hair, sometimes simultaneously asking permission and other times not. He said his mother entreated him to do "something" with it - cut it or braid it - because she was afraid he would not be able to find work with long natural hair.

Fabrice Taraud
© Discover Paris!
Taraud said his young son has natural hair and people think it's cute. He's waiting to see what people's reaction to his son's hair will be when he becomes a young teen.

Rounding out the panel was Antonia Opiah*, founder of Un-ruly.com and the Unadorned Media network. Antonia is exploring the cultural differences among different African Diaspora populations regarding natural hair in a docu-series called Pretty. She stated her belief that the interest in and increasing passion for natural hair is forming cross-cultural bridges and fostering increased understanding across the globe. She mentioned a peculiar state of affairs in the U.S. where, in several states, hairdressers are not legally allowed to braid hair because they are not taught to do so in beauty school and therefore do not have a license to do so.

Antonia Opiah
© Discover Paris!
Professor Soumahoro and others on the panel asserted that this situation also exists in France, concluding that "officially, nappy hair does not exist" in the world of cosmetology here.

Afro contains photographic portraits of 110 persons - men and women, French and non-French - who shared what it means to wear their hair natural, in braids, or in dreadlocks. Issues range from core beliefs about self-worth and economic implications in terms of employment to practical matters such as where to find a hairdresser and hair care products adapted to natural hair.

Collage of portraits from Afro projected during
"Nappy or Not Nappy?"
© Discover Paris!
Photographer Brigitte Sombié was not present at the event.

*Don't miss reading this powerful post by Antonia Opiah: "Can I Touch Your Hair?"

************

Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

Connie Fredericks-Malone Sings at Festival of African Culture

By Tom Reeves
American singer Connie Fredericks-Malone recently sang at a festival of African culture that was held in the Paris suburb of Achères.

Connie Fredericks-Malone Sings Gospel
© Discover Paris!
A former actress and vocal performer, Connie hails from a family of talented performers, including a renowned brother, blues musician Taj Mahal, and a sister, Carole Fredericks, whose soulful voice made her famous in France. An experienced arts manager and public relations professional, she works now as manager and spokesperson for the Carole D. Fredericks Foundation, whose mission is to preserve the memory of the late Carole Fredericks and to promote her musical legacy.

The festival, entitled Journée Histoire et Renaissance (Day of History and Rebirth), featured conferences, expositions, poetry, film projections, literary debates...and a competition for the best African hairstyle! A number of vendors supplied African and Caribbean food, books, jewelry, and art at stands that had been set up around the periphery of the conference hall.

The event was organized by Dieudonné Gnammankou, research scholar and author of a book on the African ancestry of the Russian poet Alexander Pushkin, and Joëlle Esso, artist, actress, dancer, singer, and author of a children's book about soccer star Samuel Eto'o Fils. Esso and Gnammankou invited Connie to perform at the event during a meeting held at their publishing house – Degan Editions – where they gathered to discuss an independent project.

Joëlle Esso and Dieudonné Gnammankou
© Discover Paris!
Connie sang three songs - "Amazing Grace," "Children Go Where I Send Thee," and "This Little Light of Mine." She explained that each of them has a special place in her heart:

I've sung "Amazing Grace" for many years and I have my own a capella arrangement of the song. Audiences of all backgrounds recognize the song and love it.

"Children Go Where I Send Thee" is another traditional song that I learned as a child. I first heard Mahalia Jackson sing it, then folksingers Peter, Paul, and Mary. It is a fun song that allows the audience to clap along.

"This Little Light of Mine" was my mom's favorite song. My mother, Mildred Fredericks Williams, was a fantastic singer in her own right. She thought "This Little Light of Mine" was an important inspirational song. I couldn't agree more.

Each of these songs has a strong message which spiritually lifts the listener (and the singer)!

During the festivities, Connie was interviewed by Christina Okello, Paris correspondent for ARISE NEWS. ARISE is a 24-hour news and entertainment channel with broadcast hubs in London, New York, and Johannesburg.

Connie interviewed by Christine Okello
© Discover Paris!
Click HERE to watch ARISE NEWS' coverage of the event - including a few notes of Connie's singing as well as her interview. (Story begins at 20:22 minutes and runs for approximately two minutes.)

Connie and her husband, Jim Malone, spend several weeks in France every year. The Journée Histoire et Renaissance presented a wonderful opportunity for them to connect with the black community in France...

Connie Fredericks-Malone (left), Bwemba Bong (historian and author - center), and Jim Malone (right)
© Discover Paris!

Joëlle Esso, Connie Fredericks-Malone, AfricaSam (photojournalist), and Jim Malone
© Discover Paris!
and sample African and Caribbean cuisine. Connie said among the dishes sold by vendors at the event, she liked the curry and fried fish kebab best. She enjoyed herself so much that she told me she "Can't wait to do it again next year!"

Tom Reeves is the co-founder of Discover Paris!

************

Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Black Paris Profiles™ II: Nicole Pembrook

Nicole Pembrook is perhaps the best known African-American hairstylist in Paris today. She has built her stellar reputation over the past thirteen years and is primed for an extraordinary year in 2014. We met at a private party several weeks ago and I took the opportunity to invite her to share her story with Entrée to Black Paris.

Nicole Pembrook
Photo courtesy of Nicole Pembrook
Nicole moved to Paris in June 2001. She was a “freelance” stylist for the first five years, working her magic for fashion models participating in runway shows and photo shoots as well as for performers on television shows. All the while, she was establishing a private clientele.

After winning first place in the 2005 Golden Scissors competition sponsored by SoftSheen-Carson (now L’Oréal), she decided that she needed a salon. She went on to open Polished Hair Care late in the summer of 2007. While she still does a couple of photo shoots a year, her primary activity now centers on the salon.

Nicole’s current client base is 15% European, 20% African-American, 15% Middle Eastern, and 50% African-Caribbean. Her francophone clients need not worry about communicating with her and her staff because the predominant language spoken at Polished Hair Care is French. When I asked her how long it took for her to learn the lingo of the black French hair salon, she replied:

I'm still learning! Learning another langue is never easy. I still pick up new lingo even today. But I was always determined to "speak." I'd say that maybe after about 2 1/2 years, I was able to communicate enough for the job.

Polished Hair Care is located in the Arcade des Champs Elysées (Arcade du Lido) at 76-78, avenue des Champs Elysées. Because it is central and the metro and RER lines are close by, clients from all over Paris and the neighboring suburbs can reach the salon easily.

Nicole notes that some people think that the services offered at the salon are financially inaccessible because of the salon’s decidedly prestigious location. Despite this drawback, she is not currently planning to move or to look for a second location. Her staff of five stylists provides excellent service and Nicole says that this would be the case regardless of where the salon is located. She’d love to have a larger space though, so who knows where her success will lead her!

Polished Hair Care interior
Photo courtesy of Nicole Pembrook
Polished Hair Care’s primary source of clients is referrals. Most of Nicole’s American clients find her through the Internet. Regardless of how they find her, delivering quality hair care is her paramount concern.

I asked Nicole about the “natural hair movement” that is growing among African and Afro-Caribbean women in Paris. She says that a large part of this community is embracing natural hair due to “extreme failures” with relaxers and extensions. She thinks that her francophone clients are becoming more aware of this problem and are trying to seek out better solutions for their hair.

Here in Europe, it's different from back home. A lot of us (African Americans) were used to getting our hair washed and oiled as children and going to the hairdresser with our moms. We were educated about our hair, but here in France, a lot if women are not. Many black women who frequent the salons in Château d’Eau rarely see the same hairdresser twice. So I feel that we have to go back to the basics. This is essential to feminine beauty.

Client education is most important. The more you learn about your hair as an individual, what it needs and how to take care of it, the better choices you can make about who does your hair.

I think the [natural hair] movement is way overdue and I love it! Hair loss has forced some women into natural hair – my clientele has shifted to about 40% natural hair within the last five years!

Each client deserves to have the best hair possible. For some, natural hair is the best way to achieve length retention and volume and find healthy hair again.

Nicole keeps abreast of the latest techniques, products, etc. by attending professional hair classes and hair shows as well as through the Internet to keep Polished Hair Care on the cutting edge of the salon business. She favors the use of natural beauty products and says that Aveda and Alterna are some of her favorite brands. She was a finalist in Tribu-te Magazine’s "The Big One" hair competition at the Caroussel du Louvre in 2011 and did her first trade show – Beyond Color – in Paris in June 2013.

Born and raised in Richmond, California, Nicole learned to be a stylist at her mother’s knee. Her mom, who’s still in the business, is her inspiration, her trainer, and her mentor in hair care. These two ladies continue to support each other professionally by exchanging techniques and other information gathered at educational classes and training events.

Nicole moved to Paris because she was ready for “another experience.” Though she never consciously considered moving abroad, she has always liked “beautiful things – art, fashion…” as well as history and traveling. She says that she needed to know what was going on outside of the African-American community in northern California, which was her comfort zone. During a visit to France in 1999, she fell in love with the lifestyle, culture and the food, and decided to make her move.

Shortly after relocating, she met her husband, Stéphane who hails from Cameroon. She recalls the events leading up to their first encounter as follows:

I called some friends to see if they were going out one evening. When they showed up I said great this should be fun! The only problem is that I forgot about the language barrier. They all spoke minimal English and my French was horrible! By the end of that evening I had to break away for a breath of fresh air and bumped into what was to be my future husband. He asked in English if I would like a drink! I was sold...

The happy couple has two beautiful children who identify strongly with their American and Cameroonian heritage. Nicole and Stéphane love to read and research history from both cultures and share this information with the kids. The family spends as much time as possible picnicking and playing in Paris’ beautiful parks.

Nicole says that she doesn’t really have a favorite neighborhood in Paris – she’s lived here so long that she loves all of it! She loves the nightlife, saying that you are sure to have an unforgettable evening dining and dancing here.

When asked what advice she would give to someone who is thinking of moving here and wanting to work in Paris, she simply said:

Anything is possible!

************

Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.

If you like this posting, share it with your friends by using one of the social media links below!

Josephine Baker and the Black Aesthetic

The association CAPDIV (Cercle d’Action pour la Promotion de la Diversité [Circle of Action for the Promotion of Diversity]) and the Université des Mondes Noirs (Black Worlds University)* hosted another excellent event last Saturday on the occasion of International Women's Day and in honor of Black History Month. Previous events heralded the contribution of African soldiers fighting in the two World Wars (2011) and paid homage to Angela Davis (2012). This year, Josephine Baker was the focus of an afternoon that was meant to explore the meaning of the Black Aesthetic.

The formula for these events - a musical interlude, a film screening, and a panel discussion - continues to work well. After a brief introduction by CAPDIV president Ferdinand Ezembe, Laetitia Ndiaye warmed up the audience with several songs, including Marvin Gaye's "What's Goin' On" and a moving rendition of Bob Marley's "Redemption Song."

Ferdinand Ezembe
© Discover Paris!
Laetitia Ndaiye
© Discover Paris!
Next, the French made-for-TV movie Josephine Baker en couleur (Josephine Baker in Color) provided an unusual look at "The Black Pearl". Rare footage of Josephine's performances as well as an interview during which she discusses the adoption of her children made this film a delight to watch. The commentary did not neglect to mention that young Josephine bathed in lemon juice to lighten her skin at the same time that white French women sought to become darker to emulate her. It also includes film of a performance that she did in whiteface.

Josephine Baker in Whiteface
© Discover Paris!
The film set the proverbial stage for a lively debate that began among five panelists and ended with a question and answer period during which several women and men in the audience expressed themselves. The panelists, pictured from left to right below, were:

• Mata Gabin, actress
• Patrick Lozès, pharmacist and former president of CRAN
• Gilette Leuwat, founder of the natural cosmetics firm Institut Gillette Leuwat
• Paul Heutching, journalist and moderator
• Isabelle Mananga Ossey, director of Association Label Beauté Noire

Black Aesthetic Panel
© Discover Paris!
All the panelists spoke of many issues in response to various questions posed by moderator Heutching. Among the numerous sentiments expressed, Mata Gabin spoke of the well-known difficulties that black actresses have in getting non-stereotypical roles and said that she discourages fellow actresses from depigmenting their skin because (aside from the health risks associated with this activity) it will make things even more difficult for talented, dark-skinned actresses to land the roles they seek. Patrick Lozès spoke of his opposition to the Miss Black France beauty pageant held in 2012, comparing it to an effort to launch a black university to counteract inequalities in the current system of higher education in France. Gillette Leuwat stated that black babies are not born with nappy hair - she contends that the natural state of hair in babies of all races is the same at birth and that the use of soaps and shampoos created for white people is what causes black hair to become nappy. Isabelle Mananga Ossey spoke passionately about her mission to have voluntary skin depigmentation recognized as a health hazard by the French authorities and indicated that men as well as women subject themselves to skin whitening.

The abovementioned statements only scratch the surface of what was debated during the event and the audience eagerly joined in once the floor was opened for questions. Even though the weather was picture perfect, the conference room was filled with participants.

Conference Attendees
© Discover Paris!
The discussion was so spirited that the event lasted several minutes longer than scheduled. Afterward, it continued in the main hall over snacks, soft drinks, and wine.

*L’ACSE (Agence National pour la Cohesion Social et l’Egalité des Chances [National Agency for Social Cohesion and Equal Opportunity]), Afrique Conseil (Africa Council), and the mayor’s office of the City of Paris provided support for the event.

************

Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.
We are proud to have been selected as one of 10 BEST Paris blogs!

If you liked this article, share it with your friends and colleagues by clicking on one or more of the social media buttons below!