Showing posts with label Senegalese cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Senegalese cuisine. Show all posts

Thursday, December 29, 2011

Art and Food Pairing™: Sunugal

Entrée to Black Paris’ Art and Food Pairing™ articles generally feature a museum or gallery showing Afro-centric works, followed by a review of a nearby Afro-centric restaurant. Today, for the first time, we present art and food found in the same establishment – a Senegalese restaurant called Sunugal. In December 2011, this restaurant won the coveted Marmite d’Or award sponsored by the City of Paris.

Sunugal – Night view of façade
© Discover Paris!

Sunugal – Front dining room
© Discover Paris!

Owner Alpha Diallo is proud of the restaurant’s zinc bar, a holdover from the days when an old-time bistrot occupied the locale. The bar stands at the entrance of the principal dining room, which is dimly lit and has tall windows that stretch fully across its width. Although long, the room is rather narrow, and there is just enough space for a person to move between the rows of tables.

Alpha Diallo – owner of Sunugal Restaurant
© Discover Paris!

Several mixed-media paintings by artist Laurence Galand hang on maize-colored walls.


Mixed media art by Laurence Galand
© Discover Paris!

A French artist-in-residence at Seine-et-Marne, Galand creates paintings and sculptures from reclaimed materials at beaches and on city streets. She says that her art will hang at Sunugal as long as Mr. Diallo wishes, so it is likely that you will find at least one or two of her works there at any time.

A single portrait by Cameroonian photographer Mario Epanya remains on display from a previous exposition:
Photo portrait by Mario Epanya
© Discover Paris!

With a background in fashion as a makeup and hair artist, Epanya publishes a bimonthly beauty magazine called Winkler.

When Tom and I entered the restaurant, Mr. Diallo greeted us and personally ushered us to our table. Having noticed that I was slightly stuffy, he recommended that I try a Punch gingembre as a bracer against my cold. He said that he uses ginger himself for throat ailments, and brought me a heated concoction of hot water, ginger juice, rum, and lime. It was delicious and I did not refuse when our waitress offered to refill my glass later in the meal! Tom ordered Punch coco, a rum drink served with ice and coconut milk in a tall glass. We both munched on green olives in a spicy mustard sauce and peanuts as we perused the menu.

Punch gingembre
© Discover Paris!

As a starter, we decided to split a plate containing four Pastels – Senegalese fritters stuffed with a dark-meat fish. Though I don’t care for fish, I found the fritters to be quite good. Light and slightly crunchy, they were served with a spicy onion sauce for dipping.

Tom was eager to try the restaurant’s award-winning Thieboudienne. (Sunugal won the Marmite d’Or for its preparation of this classic dish.) He was served a thick cut of fish smothered in flavorsome gravy with a large mound of rice and big morsels of cabbage, manioc, carrot, eggplant, and turnip, and a single, whole okra pod on the side. He found the dish to be very appetizing: the fish was firm, yet it yielded to the pressure of a fork; the carrot, manioc, and turnip were cooked firm to the bite; and the eggplant, okra, and cabbage retained their savory flavors.

Thiboudienne
© Discover Paris!

For my main course, I selected Thiébou Yapp – two sizable morsels of stewed lamb shoulder covered with an onion and olive sauce. The meat was tender and flavorful. A huge mound of short-grain rice cooked in dark gravy accompanied the dish.

During the meal, Mr. Diallo brought over a small dish of fond de marmite—crispy grains of rice that are found at the bottom of the stew pot. When sprinkled on the food, these savory grains provided a delicious, crunchy counterpoint to the meal.

As a beverage accompaniment, Tom ordered Gazelle, a slightly-bitter, blond beer from Senegal served in 63cl bottles. Still fighting my impending cold, I ordered another Punch gingembre.

For dessert, Mr. Diallo recommended a dish that was not on the menu. Called Thiacry, it is a homemade sweet pudding made with millet, crème fraîche, and yogurt. Tom ordered it and declared it to be rich and sweet and sour at the same time. He said that it was a refreshing dessert.

I ordered Beignets sénégalais, three balls of slightly sweet, somewhat chewy, fried dough flavored with spices and served with crème chantilly. I have never seen such a dessert in other Senegalese restaurants, so I decided to give it a try. While flavorful, the level of sweetness was less than what I anticipated, particularly in comparison to the sweet mint tea that we were served afterward. This beverage could have served as dessert on its own!

While we dined, African music played over the sound system until a local singer, Moussa Kanouté, arrived to sing and play his kora, an African harp. We were able to meet him and shake his hand during one of his breaks.

Moussa Kanouté
© Discover Paris!

We returned to Sunugal several days after this first dining experience and sat at the zinc bar. We struck up a conversation with a man there, who we learned is a regular at the restaurant. When the subject of the specialties of the house came up, he stated that he considered “conviviality” to be topmost at the restaurant. Indeed, we had a lively, enjoyable chat with him and the servers behind the bar as we watched the restaurant fill with customers. I ordered bissap juice and was intrigued by the unique, refreshing taste of this beverage – different than any other I have tasted before! I learned that Diallo adds orange water, a bit of pineapple juice, and a little sugar to his hibiscus infusion. The next time we visit the restaurant, I’ll be ordering an entire pitcher!

As renovations are scheduled for Sunugal, we anticipate that it will look quite different when we return. We think, though, that the food, drink, and hospitality will remain as excellent as we have found it!

Sunugal
3, rue Crespin de Gast
75011 Paris
Telephone: 01.48.06.86.30
Internet: www.resto-sunugal.com
Metro: Menilmontant (Line 2)

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Thursday, April 28, 2011

Porokhane - A Taste of Senegal

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A few days ago, Tom and I met our friend Daniel for a repas dépaysant. (Roughly translated, this means “a meal that removes you from your own country.”) We often eat such meals with Daniel, and enjoy searching for restaurants that provide great food at low prices for these occasions.

For this dining experience, we selected a Senegalese restaurant named Porokhane in the 10th arrondissement. As it is located just off the rue Oberkampf, we were not surprised to find the neighborhood to be quite lively. The restaurant is only a couple of blocks away from the passage de Menilmontant, the street where we saw Almeta Speaks perform at the Ateliers du Chaudron in March.

Porokhane Restaurant
© Discover Paris!

We arrived at 7:30 PM and found Daniel already waiting for us. Only one other table was occupied at that time, but the restaurant began to fill by the time we left. We were cordially greeted as we entered and were immediately ushered to our table. There was a long wait before the waitress came over to take our order, so we had plenty of time to discuss the different dishes on the menu. I told Tom and Daniel that the portions would likely be large, and said that I planned to order only starter and a main dish. Both of them opted for a main dish and a dessert.

I ordered aloco sauce – lightly fried plantains served atop a large lettuce leaf with a lightly spicy tomato and onion sauce in a small serving dish alongside. As I predicted, the serving was enormous! I invited Tom and Daniel to help me finish it, as there was no way that I could eat this entire tasty appetizer and hope to be able to eat my main course afterward. They obliged, and were happy that they did!

Aloco Sauce
© Discover Paris!

For the main course, I selected Colombo de Cabri (goat stew). Tom chose Poisson Yassa (fish marinated with lemon juice and smothered in onions) and Daniel chose Poulet Yassa (chicken marinated with lemon juice and smothered in onions). Each dish was served with a large mound of tender, white rice, and the server was sure to place a small dish of the obligatory hot pepper sauce condiment on the table before leaving us to savor our meal.

While Yassa is a traditional Senegalese preparation, Colombo is known to be from the French Caribbean. I love Yassa, but I selected the Colombo because it is rare to find goat on the menu at restaurants other than Caribbean ones. The gravy (called sauce in French) was a bit grainy in texture, but both meat and gravy were bursting with flavor. Tom and Daniel both consumed their Yassa with gusto and declared that they were completely satisfied with their meals. After helping me with the aloco and devouring their main dishes, neither of them could find room for dessert!

As beverages, I selected a punch baobab to accompany my appetizer and a punch tamarind to accompany my main dish. I had never tasted either before, and found them to be somewhat similar in flavor. Though each was supposed to contain alcohol, I could not detect any in either drink. Tom and Daniel split a Senegalese beer called La Gazelle, and said that they liked its flavor.

We enjoyed live music – singing and acoustic guitar – by Senegalese artist Malick during our meal. We plan to return to the restaurant to purchase one of his CDs.

The décor of the restaurant is not anything special, with the exception of the paintings by Senegal’s Souleymane Ndiaye that grace the walls. In fact, you could say that it is a tad “run down.” We also found the dining room to be quite dark with (no candles or “mood lighting”, so it is advisable to sit next to the windows if possible. The service was slow, though friendly. However, the food was beyond reproach!


Views of Porokhane dining room
© Discover Paris!

Porokhane
3, rue Moret
75010 Paris
Telephone: 01.40.21.86.74
Metro: Saint-Maur (Line 3), Menilmontant (Line 2), Couronnes (Line 2)
Hours: 7 PM to 1 AM from Monday through Sunday. Closed for lunch.

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.



Thursday, November 11, 2010

Le Petit Dakar: Not Just Any African Restaurant

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In the heart of the Marais district, just north of the trendy rue des Francs Bourgeois, lies a small restaurant called Le Petit Dakar.  It is an unusual find in this fashionable neighborhood, and one worth exploring!

The old façade of the restaurant was more evocative of Africa than the modern one, so that now, only the name indicates to passersby that they will find something other than French fare inside.

Le Petit Dakar - Old Façade
© Discover Paris!


Le Petit Dakar - New Façade
© Discover Paris!

Upon entering, one does not find the kitsch that decorates the interior in many of Paris’ African restaurants. The walls and ceiling are light-colored, and the tables are made of light-colored wood. Multi-media works of contemporary African art on the walls and African music playing on the sound system are the only indications that this is anything other than a traditional restaurant.

Le Petit Dakar - Dining Room
© Discover Paris!

As the name suggests, Le Petit Dakar specializes in Senegalese cuisine.  Yet not all of the dishes on the menu come from Senegal.  The entire series of entrées is listed under the title Un Détour par les Iles (An Island Detour), which acknowledges the culinary culture of France’s departmental and territorial islands, and one of the main dishes on the menu is from central Africa (see below).  One dessert is Senegalese (Tiacri - consisting of a millet couscous and milk-based preparation flavored with ginger and cinnamon), but the Fondant Tout Choco (chocolate cake with a melted chocolate center) is unabashedly French.  A small selection of ice creams round out this part of the menu.

As for beverages, the restaurant proposes two apéritifs that I recommend: Vodka bissap orangé, made from vodka and bissap (juice from the hibiscus flower) flavored with orange juice, and Rhum gingembre ananas, made from rum, ginger, and pineapple. It also proposes virgin bissap juice and ginger juice on its beverage menu.  A Senegalese beer called La Gazelle is available for beer drinkers, but be aware that the bottles contain a whopping 63 centiliters of the brew!  If you prefer wine with dinner, there is selection of French wines on the menu as well.

My husband Tom and I first dined at Le Petit Dakar a few weeks ago.  The traditional, Senegalese Yassa (chicken marinated in lemon juice, then smothered in onions) that I ordered as a main dish was quite tasty, and Tom loved his Thiéboudiènne (the national dish of Senegal, made from fish, rice, and tomato sauce – served only on Fridays and Saturdays).   We returned last Thursday, anticipating that dinner there would be the perfect follow-up to the vernissage (art opening) we attended that evening at the contemporary African art gallery Les Arts Derniers on the nearby rue Saint-Gilles. 

Thiéboudiènne
© Discover Paris!

This time, both Tom and I ordered the same thing: Assiette Seka (warm bell pepper, eggplant, and zucchini atop a mixed salad) and a central African main dish called Sauce Graine.  This consists of lamb stewed with okra and palm nuts, with a mound of white rice served alongside. (The “gravy” was not at all slimy, which is what most people fear when they hear that okra is part of a dish.)  We happily accepted the server’s suggestion to accentuate the dish with finely diced peppers served in a tiny ceramic container, and dosed our dishes with the fiery condiment according to our individual taste.  I had a glass of ginger juice with the meal, which was refreshing and pleasantly complementary to the flavor of the stew. 

Sauce Graine
© Discover Paris!

While we found the appetizer to be “correct,” we both devoured the Sauce Graine!  We forewent dessert, as we were quite satiated after finishing the main dish.  We were even more pleased with our bill - we paid a modest 60 euros for our apéritifs (two Vodka bissap orangé), first and main courses, and my glass of ginger juice.

For an “off-the-beaten-track” dining experience in the center of Paris, try Le Petit Dakar!

Le Petit Dakar
6, rue Elzevir
75003 Paris
Telephone: 01.44.59.34.74
Metro: Saint-Paul (Line 1)
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday—Noon to 2:30 PM and 7 PM to 11:00 PM; Sunday—Noon to 2:30 PM

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.