Showing posts with label Chef Loïc Dablé. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chef Loïc Dablé. Show all posts

Thursday, December 10, 2015

Art and Food Pairing™: Chefs-d'Oeuvre d'Afrique and Café Dapper Loïc Dablé - Part 2

In Part 1 of this Art and Food Pairing™, I wrote about the extraordinary exhibition, Chefs-d'oeuvre d'Afrique, which is currently on display at the Musée Dapper.

This week, I'm sharing my review of the museum's restaurant, Café Dapper Loïc Dablé.


Café Dapper Löic Dablé is only open on Friday evening and weekends. On Saturday and Sunday, customers have a choice between lunch, dinner, or brunch menus.

Café Dapper dining room
© Discover Paris!

The menu from Saturday, November 21 consisted of the following:

Lunch:

Soupe de courge à la pèbè (Butternut squash soup with "false nutmeg" from Cameroon)

Risotto poulet fumé or Brandade de lieu noir, pousses d'épinard (Smoked chicken risotto or black pollock purée with spinach sprouts)

Pannacotta bissup (Hibiscus pannacotta)

(Lunch was a two-course meal consisting of entrée-plat (starter and main course) or plat-dessert (main course and dessert) for 29€. Note that entrée means "starter" in French.)

Brunch:

Salmon gravelax with pickled radishes

Scrambled eggs with cream

Persimmon and banana fruit salad

Pancakes (sic) Kinkeliba (an herb used for tea)

Hot beverage and fruit juice

Café Dapper Menu d'Art
© Discover Paris!

We noted that there were three waiters working the room, which we found to be unusual considering the small size of the café. We had the chance to interact with each of them during the course of our meal. All were friendly and accommodating.

Tom ordered a Guinness Foreign extra stout before deciding upon the menu he preferred. It was brewed in Cameroon and had an alcohol content of 7.5%, which is well above the ~4% of traditional Guinness brewed in Ireland. He described its flavor as being assertive and bitter, like strong, unsweetened coffee.

Guinness Foreign Stout
© Discover Paris!

I ordered a glass of a 2014 South African red wine called Douglas Green, which was a hearty, peppery, medium-bodied wine with animal notes that mellowed into flavors of ripe red fruits. I discovered that it was the perfect accompaniment for my meal.

Pinotage Douglas Green 2014
© Discover Paris!

Tom elected to try the brunch, while I chose the lunch menu. I decided to go for the entrée-plat option and looked forward to tasting the soup, followed by the chicken risotto. As we waited to be served, we enjoyed our respective beverages.

For the salmon dish, slices of two kinds of pickled radish provided agreeable flavor contrast to the chunks of succulent salmon that had been marinated in brine.

The smooth and buttery scrambled eggs had been perfectly prepared.

Slices of persimmon and banana constituted the fruit salad, which was served without a fruit-juice base. The banana tasted like banana – nothing special there – but the persimmon was sweet and flavorful.

Salmon gravelax with pickled radishes, banana-persimmon salad,
and creamy scrambled eggs
© Discover Paris!

The texture of the pancake (there was only a single, small one) was firm, not soft as anticipated. Served with caramelized sugar-syrup, it tasted quite good, but was quickly consumed and left Tom wishing that there had been a stack of at least three or four of them.

Pancake kinkeliba
© Discover Paris!

The hot chocolate lacked the rich chocolate flavor that Tom always looks for in this beverage, but he declared it to be adequate nonetheless. He found the sweet juice of passion fruit to be refreshing.

My butternut squash soup was thick and satisfying without being creamy. Garnished with a single leaf of flat parsley and flavored with pèbè, the "false nutmeg" from Cameroon, it reminded me of the upcoming Thanksgiving holiday.

Soupe de courge
© Discover Paris!

The chicken risotto dish was superb! It consisted of four slices of smoked chicken breast that rested upon a generous bed of herbed risotto seasoned with foam collected from milk in which hot peppers had been cooked. This gave a lovely spicy kick to the dish!

Risotto poulet fumé
© Discover Paris!

While we were both satisfied with our meals, there was definitely something amiss with the service.

Lunch/brunch crowd at Café Dapper
© Discover Paris!

Tom received all of his food at once, but he did not receive the hot chocolate that he ordered with the brunch. (It is normally served at the beginning of the meal.)

On the other hand, I received nothing for quite an extended period. And when I was finally served, my main dish was set before me instead of my entrée.

When I called attention to this mistake, the waiter apologized profusely and asked if I were angry. He sheepishly suggested that because the dish was hot, I might want to go ahead and eat it. He assured me that he would bring out the soup immediately thereafter. He brought Tom's hot chocolate, and later, the passion fruit juice.

The soup was served quickly after I finished the main course, but there was another delay when I requested salt and pepper and a second glass of wine. I began to laugh at the accumulation of these missteps, and when my wine was served, I found that there was more than the standard portion in my glass. This was either a mistake in my favor or a gesture of apology!

Finally, the waiter came over and asked if I had ordered dessert, forgetting that I had already received the two courses I had ordered. I, too, had forgotten that I was only entitled to two courses and said that I was ready to order. The waiter quickly recovered his memory and said with a smile that he would offer me the dessert at no charge as a means of apologizing for the prior gaffs.

The pannacotta bissap was a traditional preparation of sweet, semi-dense Italian cream with a thick hibiscus syrup layered on top. It was perfectly delectable!

Pannacotta bissap
© Discover Paris!

At the end of the meal, we asked to meet Chef Dablé. He greeted us warmly and firmly shook my hand. I explained that I planned to write this article about him and asked if he would mind taking a photo with me. The waiter then chimed in and said that he would take a photo of Chef Dablé, Tom, and me. Chef was in his street clothes and ready to leave, but he graciously went back into the kitchen to don his chef's attire. The waiter was very accommodating and took multiple shots so that we could choose among them.

From left to right:
Tom Reeves, Chef Loïc Dablé, Monique Y. Wells
© Discover Paris!

We thanked them both and prepared to leave.

As we walked toward the exit, another customer walked up to Chef Dablé and exclaimed how much he and his party had enjoyed their meal. They were deep in conversation when we left.

Chef Dablé discusses wine with a customer
© Discover Paris!

Though the service during this meal was uneven, the waiters were gracious and of good humor and the food was beyond reproach. I will happily return to Café Dapper to give it another try.

Thursday, December 3, 2015

Art and Food Pairing™: Chefs-d'Oeuvre d'Afrique and Café Dapper Loïc Dablé - Part 1

For this Art and Food Pairing™, there's no need to leave the art venue to find the restaurant. Both are conveniently located in the same building!

The Musée Dapper's current exhibition, Chefs-d'Oeuvre d'Afrique (Masterpieces from Africa), is not to be missed. Though I don't pretend to have seen much in terms of African art and artifacts outside of Paris, I have to say that I was thoroughly impressed with what I saw there!

According to documentation provided by the museum, some of the most important works in the world have been brought together here for the first time. These pieces of outstanding form and beauty are representative of the great cultures of Africa.

Chefs d'oeuvre d'Afrique
Ground floor exhibition room
© Discover Paris!

The exhibition is divided into two parts: Central Africa and West Africa. It consists of masks, statues / statuettes, headdresses, weapons, and personal items such as jewelry that were used for purposes as varied as honoring ancestors, initiating adolescents into adulthood, and assuring fertility for women. The pieces on display were selected because of their visual appeal as well as for the roles that they served in the societies that created them.

Happily, the museum allows photos (without flash) to be taken during this exhibition. So I'm pleased to share images of some of the works that I found to be most stunning.

Collage - AKAN tête (head)
17th century Terra Cotta
Ghana - Hemang (Twifo) region
© Discover Paris!

BAMANA / MARKA masque ntomo (ntomo mask)
Wood, caury shells, vegetable fibers, metal, and pigments
Mali - San, Siânro, or Soro region
© Discover Paris!

KOTA/MAHONGWE figure de reliquaire (reliquary figure)
Wood, copper, and brass
Gabon
© Discover Paris!

LUBA Ceremonial Ax
Wood, iron, copper, and pigments
Democratic Republic of Congo
© Discover Paris!

FON Statue representing le Roi Glèlè (King Glèlè)
Brass
Ancient Kingdom of Dahomey (Benin)
© Discover Paris!

Short films also contribute to this exhibition. In the anteroom on the ground floor, a video called Afrique Plurielle is shown on three walls. It unites vintage images, photos, and film clips to examine ancient and contemporary rituals around hair; skin painting, scarification and tattooing; and death.

Scene from Afrique Plurielle
© Discover Paris!

Scene from Afrique Plurielle
© Discover Paris!

Scene from Afrique Plurielle
© Discover Paris!

In the back corner of the upper floor of the exhibition, a second video shows a young man walking across parched earth and then shows scenes of his mother performing a ritual through which she calls upon the gods to bring rain to the land and to protect her son.

After viewing the exquisite works on display, take the stairs to the lower level of the museum to enjoy a fabulous meal of African fusion cuisine by Chef Loïc Dablé.

I'll present my review of this restaurant experience in Part 2 of "Art and Food Pairing™: Chefs-d'Oeuvre d'Afrique and Café Dapper Loïc Dablé."

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.







Thursday, October 8, 2015

Chef Loïc Dablé Brings Afro-fusion Cuisine to the Musée Dapper


Contemporary African cuisine is now being served on weekends at the Dapper Museum!

Chef Loïc Dablé of Star Chef fame is at the helm of the newest iteration of the Café Dapper, which opened its doors on October 2.

Chef Loïc Dablé

Through the new restaurant and his numerous other culinary activities, Chef Dablé proposes to create a new definition of African cuisine. He has created menus for lunch, dinner, and brunch, as well as several à la carte offerings for the restaurant.

A graduate of the Ecole de Paris des Métiers de la table, du tourisme, et de l'hôtellerie (Paris School of Culinary, Tourism, and Hotel Management Professions), Dablé has been called the creator of "Afrofusion" - an ingenious mix of African and Western flavors. Prior to taking over the kitchen at the Dapper Museum, he worked at restaurants in London and Ibiza as well as at Apicius, one of Paris' finest dining establishments.

In a recent announcement distributed by the museum, Chef Dablé shared the following (translated from French):

Cooking, an expression of my creativity that I cherish as much as painting, allows me to share the palette of flavors that define my culinary journey. In this magnificent setting, I humbly offer a contemporary view on African cuisine... exploring forgotten or unknown traditions and (re) discovering masterpieces from Africa. Often limited to a gustatory art, cuisine is also an art of living and sharing.


A thirty-something Franco-Ivorian, Chef Dablé hails from the Paris region. His first Sassand'Art menu dégustation (tasting menu), served at the café on opening night, consisted of novel creations such as gravlax attiéké (cured salmon and manioc), risotto poulet fumé (risotto and smoked chicken), and panacotta bissap (panna cotta with hibiscus). The name "Sassand'Art is inspired by the Sassandra-Marahoué district of the Ivory Coast.

The current exhibition at the Musée Dapper, Chefs d'Oeuvre d'Afrique, and the Café Dapper provide the perfect opportunity for an Art and Food Pairing™. I'll bring you one soon!

Café Dapper Loïc Dablé
35 bis, rue Paul Valery
75116 Paris
FRANCE
Téléphone: 06 95 85 24 87
E-mail:

Open 11:00 AM to - 11:00 PM Friday through Sunday

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Entrée to Black Paris!™ is a Discover Paris! blog.